Just When I Thought I Was Out… {Ralph Lauren Collection Spring 2012}
September 16th, 2011 § 2 Comments
…they keep pulling me back in.” — Michael Corleone
I suppose I should have never doubted that Ralph Lauren would be my favorite from NYFW. We go way, way back. And this time around I flirted with the idea of another man, but the indomitable Mr. Lauren didn’t care. He waited. He reclinated. He knew that when he would drop his glittering collection on my head, I’d come running right back to his side. He knew that I wouldn’t ever be able to say no to him…
The man was right.
For spring 2012, while most other collections showed influences of the 1930s and 40s, Mr. Lauren reached back even further to a decade he is most comfortable with — the 1920s. And why not? His costumes for Jack Clayton’s Gatsby are constantly referenced by fashion and costume designers. Why not seize upon spring’s nostalgia, ratchet up the glamour and hit his own sweet spot? Textbook really. These are clothes for both Daisy Buchanan and Jordan Baker, and you probably already know I tend to like Jordan a bit more… If you were looking for 1920s with an edge, for the ironic jazz age, you won’t find it here, because that is not what Mr. Lauren does. You need to go talk to Thom Browne if that’s what you want, because that’s what he showed this week. Mr. Lauren is unfailingly earnest, and you will either find this boring, or love it to death as I do. Ralph Lauren is not an iconoclast — he is an icon. And it is a dying breed at that…
Mr. Lauren’s spring 2012 is iridescent, feathered, and jeweled. It is club-collared, double-breasted and cuffed. The palazzo pant is making a return. You better learn how to tie a tie and how to wear a cloche hat. And above all, get thyself to a fabulous ball because these gorgeous silk gowns, they are screaming to be worn.
Now, I had to restrain myself here. Of course I wanted to post it all down to the last drop, but if you really want to see every outfit, you can head over to Vogue for that. And I highly recommend you do because photographer Marcio Madeira had a field day. His shots are A.Maz.Ing. What I wanted to share with you, were some of my favorite looks, coupled with some of my favorite detail shots (Madeira blew my mind with these — I have yet to see any other runway detail shots that are this lavish, this indulgent).
Ready? Let’s Charleston…
“Let’s, let’s stay together
Loving you whether, whether
Times are good or bad, happy or sad…”
Well done, sir.
All images via Vogue.
Autumn is Calling {Margaret Howell Fall/Winter 2011 Collection}
August 18th, 2011 § 2 Comments
Can we talk about this? Can. We. Talk?
Margaret Howell is conspiring yet again to separate me from all of my money, as you can obviously see. I am completely in love with this collection and its campaign featuring Dree Hemingway — so much so that it’s hard for me to identify what I like most. The hats, belts and scarves…the volume of the skirts…the buttoned-up boyish refinery with a splash of the deshabille. It is as if Margaret Howell opened my brain and extracted a wish list that I didn’t even know was there.
Click the images for a closer look (at what my fall will be looking like).
All images via RDJ.
Afield, Kinda: Men’s Market Week in New York
July 17th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
Today kicks off the beginning of men’s market week in New York and I am looking forward to seeing all that Spring 2012 has in store for the gents and, of course, the ladies like myself who enjoy co-opting from the best from menswear. Also looking forward to seeing some of my favorite familiar faces (especially visiting with those from out of town) and finally putting a few faces to names. As always, you can keep up with my shenanigans in real time via Twitter. If you happen to see me, please do say hello!
Bisous,
Mariah
Resolved!
January 6th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
Whilst I am still working on my own resolutions for 2011, I definitely like Valentino’s…
1. Do not get upset for stupid things
2. Do Pilates 3 times a week
3. Wear a helmet when I ski
- Valentino
Via GOOP
The Lady Prefers Gentleman Shoes
December 31st, 2010 § 1 Comment
2010 saw women everywhere stepping into brogues, wingtips and oxfords. Through a lucky series of events, I received a pair of men’s camel oxfords by Common Projects that quickly became my go-to shoes. While I frequently draw upon menswear for ideas in my own wardrobe, it was the first time my footwear reflected this source of inspiration, and I loved how the oxfords instantly smartened up any outfit.
Lost in a Supermarket posted some beautiful pictures of the very similar F/W 2010 5-hole version in August:
After a few months, my 3-hole pair appear a bit lived-in, and I love them even more. I also decided to take out the laces, for a touch of insouciance. When I was in London this month, I was stopped in Tesco by an older professorial-looking gentleman wondering how I forgot my laces. He was quite puzzled.
Sunny Santa Monica this afternoon.
For those unwilling to wear men’s shoes, many women’s shoemakers ventured into the masculine, with varying levels of success. One of my absolute favorite lines is by Dieppa Restrepo:
“Inspired by classic gentleman’s style, Dieppa Restrepo is a sophisticated unisex collection of shoes founded by Colombian duo Andrea Vargas Dieppa and Elisa Restrepo. Blurring the division between the sexes, the collection is refined, androgynous and elegant. The shoe is the quintessential grown up sneaker: beautiful and simple enough for the chic and fashion-minded, yet comfortable and durable enough for their contemporary urban lifestyle. The shoe is a walking dichotomy, both non-intrusive and timeless, yet modern and undeniably present.”
You can find Dieppa Restrepo at Maryam Nassir Zadeh (123 Norfolk Street, at Rivington, New York). Added bonus: they currently have a few models on sale! So if Santa didn’t bring you enough androgyny this Christmas, you can take care of that yourself. My favorites are the black on black Coca Colo, just in case you were feeling generous…
H/T: Splendora
Uptown Meets…The Munsters: Kate and Andy Spade
December 8th, 2010 § 1 Comment
It’s no secret that I have long admired both Kate and Andy Spade for their individual and distinctive style sensibilities. In fact, one of my most treasured handbags is a nylon Sam (by Kate) in fire engine red that I received when I was 16 (after a bit of needling of my dear old dad around Christmastime — he couldn’t imagine why anyone would need a bright red purse! Silly!)
I have always been curious how Kate and Andy successfully collaborate artistically and in business along with managing marriage and family and plumtv gives us a backstage look. We tour the Spade Southampton home, Andy’s Partners & Spade showroom/studio in NoHo, the J.Crew Liquor Store in TriBeCa, and the Spade Upper East Side apartment. I think the homes are the most interesting feature of the three part series. You can immediately sense Kate and Andy have strong design opinions, but somehow they manage to beautifully merge their ideas and envy-inducing living spaces result. You can also sense they are a couple that strives to be fair — Andy talks about moving from downtown to uptown because Kate wanted to, Kate discusses leaving the fashion industry to raise their young daughter. For those of you battling your domestic partners over decor choices, take heart! If Kate and Andy can do it, so can you…
…and now Kate has me wanting a fire engine red library, natch.
You Could Do Better, Terry Richardson…
October 21st, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Via: GQ
At this point you’ve probably either seen the Glee GQ November 2010 photos, or heard about the controversy surrounding them. Essentially, people are mad at photog Terry Richardson, GQ and the Glee actresses (note: not the actor, but we’ll get to that) for the very suggestive shoot, claiming it is tantamount to pedophilia because the actresses, while of legal age in real life, play high schoolers on the teevee. And now Dianna Argon, one of the actresses, has sort of apologized for offending anyone on her Tumblr. This moral outrage is more of the sort we saw when Britney dressed up like a schoolgirl and Miley showed her back in Vanity Fair. Except these aren’t even underage girls. Personally, I think if we really want to get concerned about overly sexualizing young girls, there are a million better things to get upset over than photos of adult women in an adult men’s magazine…but that’s just me.
GQ has come out in defense of their photos, but GQ knew what they were doing. No press is bad press. They hired Terry Richardson to do a Terry Richardson shoot, and that is what they got: girls in various stages of nekkidity — there is not one shot where a bra isn’t showing — posed in a blatantly suggestive manner (I like to call the above pose: “spread eagle in little girl panties with a bench standing in for a !!PENIS!!“) , sometimes sticking things in their mouths, etc. Of course, the treatment of Cory Montieth, the male actor, is quite different. GQ is a men’s fashion magazine and it’s to be expected that he wouldn’t be running around in his mesh boxer briefs making sexyface (he’s styled wearing oxfords and ties and sweaters and overcoats). As a stand-in for the reader, Montieth is frequently draped with his hot-to-trot costars as he smirks at the camera.
Personally, I’m tired of Terry Richardson when he can’t be bothered to do anything outside his harshly-lit, porny, American Apparel-like stuff. And how did everyone forget he did this same exact thing to the cast of Gossip Girl last year for Rolling Stone?
Richardson is a very talented fashion photographer, but he’s also pretty damn lazy. Witness his identical photos for Nous Sommes | Pendant and Reebok sneakers. To me, his most exciting work is when he pushes his own boundaries as an artist, not the boundary between pornography and fashion photography. I especially loved his August 2010 shoot for Vogue Nippon with Freja Beha Erichsen.
Via: FGR
But if you know anything about Terry Richardson, you know that he takes quite a bit of delight in the lecherous persona that he’s cultivated. He loves that Jezebel hates him. He enjoys singing songs about child molesters. He likes being on Page Six.
You could hope all you want he might evolve, but in the meantime, I hope you like boobies and lollipops.
Ralph Lauren: In His Own Words
September 29th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
In a captivating montage, Mr. Lauren discusses the inspiration and hard work that are essential to creating his runway shows while we are treated to a viewing of the Spring 2011 lines. While it is no secret that I am already a big Ralph Lauren fan, I loved hearing Lauren describe his own creative process — quite inspiring to any creative type!
“This is not a job, it is a joy. This is what I breathe, it’s what I live.”
J’adore monsieur Lauren!
Your Thoughts? J.Crew Brompton Hobo
September 29th, 2010 § 2 Comments
I dropped by the gorgeous new Womens’ J.Crew store at Madison and 79th (you must go!) and promptly fell in love with the Brompton Hobo. I loooove the Italian leather — chosen because it mimics the feel of vintage club chairs — which promises to age gracefully and the very now cross body strap. This might just be an immediate addition to the handbag family. Mama is in need of a new bag for Fall…
Complicating things a bit is the fact that it also comes in a slightly different shape…but I still think the hobo is better.
Monica Bellucci for Dolce&Gabbana Martini Gold
September 28th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are primed to unveil their cinematic campaign for their first foray into spirits – Martini Gold. Set to play in select cinemas around the world in late October, the trailer-esque ad was shot by director Jonas Akerlund (favored by Lady Gaga and Madonna) in Rome and stars the ever-gorgeous Monica Bellucci. For those unable to wait for the “theatrical” release, D&G have released a trailer (for the trailer, ha!).
Items of note: inspiration from Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, Domenico and Stefano at the table with Bellucci in the cafe, the fact that Bellucci gave birth to daughter Léonie SIX weeks before shooting this… Oh yes, and did I mention the fact that she’s 45?
Street Etiquette: The Black Ivy
September 20th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
The gentlemen over at Street Etiquette have released an amazing project called The Black Ivy. Most obviously inspired by the recent re-release of Take Ivy, a collection of photographs of Ivy League students taken in 1965 by Japanese photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida, The Black Ivy offers a new and refreshing approach to the usual WASPy prep-inspired lookbook.
For more images, head over to Unabashedly Prep. Do disregard the nonsense about Affirmative Action…
Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks
September 16th, 2010 § 1 Comment
Not yet released, but available on pre-order, the book “Louis Vuitton: 100 Legendary Trunks” is sure to be an upcoming addition to my coffee table book collection. Curated by authors Pierre Léonforte and Éric Pujalet-Plaà, the book is a collection of over 600 images — some from the LV archives, some taken especially for this project — of the 100 most spectacular trunks and cases created on commission by Louis Vuitton. Some of the more notable trunk owners include Douglas Fairbanks, Karl Lagerfeld, Ernest Hemingway, and Damien Hirst.
To get an early taste of what promises to be an exceptionally well-curated survey of the timeless Louis Vuitton trunk, check out this short film about the book:
J’adore Louis Vuitton! I can’t wait!
To pre-order, head here.
Bleu de Chanel by Martin Scorsese
August 25th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
I’ve been eagerly waiting for Martin Scorsese’s short film for Bleu de Chanel (a new men’s fragrance) and it’s finally here! Starring Gaspard Ulliel and Ingrid Schram, and featuring the song “She Said Yeah” by the Rolling Stones, Ulliel stars as a young, rebellious actor in the midst of a press conference. Definitely worth the wait!
J’adore!
Fall into Fall/Winter: Military
August 13th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
This fall, fashion reports for duty. Military inspired accents will be abundant, so if possible, add a few epaulets and brass buttons to your wardrobe with key pieces like these. If you can only pick up one piece this season, I’d personally opt for a great coat.
Crumpet cashmere mini sweater dress
Burberry Prorsum Military belted wool-blend cardi
Diane Von Furstenberg Arturo Jacket
MARC by Marc Jacobs Double Breasted Coat
MARC JACOBS shearling-lined lace-up leather boots
Halston Heritage Brandy Stingray Satchel
Fall Into Fall/Winter: Camel
August 12th, 2010 § 2 Comments
While it may be a bit difficult to picture yourself in a camel hair coat right now (especially for those of us in sweltering New York), camel is a major element for F/W 2010/2011. Incorporate this versatile neutral tone into your wardrobe with a few key pieces.
Ralph Lauren Black Label Lorraine Camel Hair Coat
Ralph Lauren Black Label Cashmere Leather-Patch Dress
Akris Drape Front Long Sleeve Dress
Barneys New York Military Coat
Botkier Maddie Snakeskin Metallic Satchel
Tory Burch Patent Eddie Ballerina Flat
Christian Louboutin Toundra Coyote-Fur Trimmed Suede Ankle Boots
Ibn Jasper, Los Angeles Tourguide
August 6th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Kanye West’s barber/image man/stylist, Ibn Jasper, talks about how he started cutting hair and then grabs his bike and takes us on a tour of some of his favorite shops along Fairfax.
Have to admit, this made me homesick! The palm trees! The traffic!
Well, maybe not the traffic.
Via: illRoots
Kate Moss for Vogue UK September 2010
August 6th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Daria Werbowy for Prada Parfum: “Thunder Perfect Mind”
August 5th, 2010 § 1 Comment
Thought I would resurrect a beautiful short film shot in 2005 by Jordan Scott (daughter of Ridley), starring model Daria Werbowy, to promote Prada’s first foray into perfume. The text is from “The Thunder, Perfect Mind” a monologue found in the Nag Hammadi Library. The excerpted text is a series of intriguing, paradoxical statements about a divine female figure. Echoing the “woman as paradox” theme, Werbowy plays different female archetypes in the film – the wife, the mistress, the virgin, the mother, the daughter – frequently passing herself in her different incarnations.
Simply lovely.
Marion Cotillard for Interview Magazine August 2010
July 22nd, 2010 § Leave a Comment
“…like a white girl dipped in chocolate.”
July 17th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
“The Colour of Beauty” is a mini documentary that follows a black runway model and her (unsuccessful) attempts to get hired for New York’s Fashion Week. See the documentary here.
It is an old problem. Runway shows have historically had very few minority models and there are endless justifications for the lack of diversity: that ethnic consumers do not have the same buying power as white consumers, that black models don’t move product, that black models are not thin enough through the hips, etc. Furthermore, the black models that have been the most successful have tended to have white features…like “a white girl dipped in chocolate.”
This film does a good job of re-introducing this issue to new audiences, but falls short when it comes to offering a solution to change the status quo. Do we start with the fashion show producers? The designers? The fashion editors? Or is this a larger problem? Is this an outdated standard of beauty that society has forgotten to modernize? How do we do that? In a country as beautifully diverse as America, a paradigm shift like this should have occurred years ago.
Three Over One S/S 2011 Lookbook
July 13th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Three Over One debuts their look for spring/summer 2011. The menswear line found abundant inspiration in the “Small Trades” photography collection by Irving Penn — a 1950/51 collection of over 200 black and white photographs of tradespeople and their tools. As Penn’s project sought to capture a way of life that he felt was disappearing, Three Over One imbues this line with a similar sense of nostalgia and utility. For those unfamiliar with “Small Trades,” get a quick overview here, courtesy of the NYT.
Via: Hypebeast
Terry Richardson for Vogue Nippon August 2010
July 7th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Richardson mutes his usually distinctive style to give us a cinematic, seventies-influenced editorial while model Freja Beha Erichsen does her best Jane Fonda.





























































