Desired Destination: Siena
January 24th, 2012 § 3 Comments
Church of San Domenico, Siena.
With all the dispatches a few weeks back from Florence for Pitti Immagine Uomo, my thoughts couldn’t help but turn to the time I spent studying abroad in the same city. I loved living in Firenze, just off of Piazza Savonarola, in a tiny and charming apartment that originally served as servant’s quarters for a massive home owned by an old and aristocratic family. As I looked at the countless photographs of the peacocking at the trade shows, I couldn’t help but look past the — well-dressed, of course — men, to the city that was peeking around the edges, and remember what living in Tuscany felt like.
My latest Desired Destination is one of my favorite places in Tuscany: the tiny, medieval town of Siena. Approximately one hour south of Florence by car, Siena is noted for its sport, its fierce neighborhood loyalties, and its ancient history. The town is divided into seventeen contrade, or wards, each with distinct boundaries and identifiable symbols and animal mascots. While originally instated to provide military support and initially organized by trade, the contrade have evolved into extremely patriotic neighborhood associations: a resident of Siena will be baptized, married and eulogized, all within his or her contrade, and as you walk through the town, you’ll find the symbols prominently featured everywhere — as almost all contrade have declared rivals and allies, boundaries are very important. These rivalries reach a fever pitch during the Palio, a biannual horse race that has been run in Siena since the 14th century.
The symbol of Siena: Romulus and Remus with the she-wolf
Actually, this is Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus. (Thanks to Simon for the correction!)
“Legend has it that the city was founded by Remus’ sons Senius and Aschius who stole the statue of the she-wolf from Apollo’s temple. Senius rode a black horse, Aschius a white steed. Those colours form the city’s heraldic colour scheme black and white while the city emblem is the same as Rome – the she-wolf and breast-feeding twins.” Via.
Palazzo Salimbeni, piazza Salimbeni.
Headquarters of the oldest bank in the world, Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena,
which has been in operation since 1472.
Piazza del Campo.
The Palio is run in Siena’s historic center, the Piazza del Campo. Spectators fill the Piazza to the brim, with wealthier spectators enjoying the view from balconies above. With layers of dirt packed over the stone, the horses and riders must complete three loops around the Piazza as fast as possible. Complicating matters are the Piazza’s sharp turns and the fact that the jockeys must ride bareback – injuries are frequent and it is not uncommon for horses to compete and win the race after discarding their graceless riders. At each race, ten contrade are represented, alliances are tested and rampant bribery is rumored, in this ultimate competition for bragging rights and glory that is much unchanged since it was first run in the 14th century.
Spectators in the Piazza del Campo, 1947. Photos by Walter Sanders for LIFE.
Each contrade brings their horse into their church for a pre-race blessing.
Horse racing not your thing? Fear not. Siena’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site assures that there is something for almost everyone, especially if you like art and churches. There are the beautiful secular frescoes in the Palazzo Pubblico and the amazingly elaborate Duomo di Siena to see. However, if you prefer to simply wander about the old winding streets, I wouldn’t argue. And definitely bring home some of the beautiful and brightly painted ceramics Siena is known for – contrade specific, of course.
For accommodations, turn to Hotel Certosa di Maggiano. Originally a Carthusian monastery built in 1394, the property changed hands and fell into disrepair until it was purchased in 1969 and eventually converted by Anna Grossi Recordati into the luxury hotel it is today. Surrounded by six acres of countryside and boasting one of the best restaurants in the world, chef Paolo Lopriore’s Il Canto, the Hotel Certosa di Maggiano is a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of Siena, conveniently located only one kilometer from the town.
Images via Hotel Certosa di Maggiano.
Currently closed for the winter, this darling hotel is set to reopen on March 16.
Perhaps I should book a room for when Pitti rolls around again in June…
Strada di Certosa, 82
0577 288 180
Field Notes: First Snow
January 23rd, 2012 § Leave a Comment
A few moments from a very lovely and very snowy winter weekend in NYC,
captured via Instagram. You can find me at @quitecontinental.
Field Notes: Buenos Aires, Argentina
December 12th, 2011 § 1 Comment
Palermo Soho
Plaza de Mayo
Mausoleum of General San Martín, Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral
Mercado de San Telmo
Museum ships
Argentine Polo Open
Recoleta Cemetary
Field Notes: Buenos Aires
As you may recall, I recently returned from a trip to Buenos Aires and I have been raving about the city to anyone who will listen. The word amazing has definitely been bandied about quite a bit. Simultaneously cosmopolitan and relaxing, the city makes for a perfect destination when the northern hemisphere turns to winter. With the exchange rate currently in my favor (~4.6 pesos to the dollar), it was an affordable escape as well. Of course, I am plotting my return trip as we speak…
I recommend staying in one of the Palermo neighborhoods: Hollywood or Soho. The neighborhoods are named for their resemblance to the American cities with the same name: Soho with its bustling shopping and dining, Hollywood with its concentration of the city’s media companies. I stayed in Palermo Soho and found it to be well located and felt exceptionally safe after dark. It is, however, a bit of a walk to the Subte (subway), but taxis are plentiful and quite affordable. Instead of staying in a hotel, I rented a flat, which is definitely the most cost-effective option. Through Buenos Aires Rents, I found a sparkling clean studio in a brand new building with 24-hour doorman service, laundry, gym and roof deck with a pool, for a little over $60 per night. While renting a flat means you don’t have a concierge on hand at all times, the folks at Buenos Aires Rents were always immediately available for my questions and also offer car service for airport transfers. If you are the type that requires daily room service, take a look at Esplendor Palermo Soho, which was darling and directly around the corner from where I stayed.
Next time, I will definitely stay at the Hotel del Casco, which is actually in San Isidro, a bit north of Buenos Aires proper. An exceptionally beautiful, 1890s neoclassical palazzo that was formerly the summer home of an aristocratic family, the Hotel del Casco has been converted into a gorgeous 20 room hotel that retains much of its original 19th century aesthetic.
Hotel del Casco. Perfection.
Buenos Aires is a city that easily lends itself to cafe lingering and meandering. I spent many lovely, lazy mornings people-watching over coffee and toast topped with dulce de leche in corner cafes. Afternoons were for siestas. Evenings were for late and lengthy dinners of steak and malbec. But should you be more itinerary-minded, there is plenty to do. Visit one of the many art museums, go to the Plaza de Mayo and see the Casa Rosada, shop for antiques in the San Telmo market on Sundays, board the museum ships of Puerto Madero, and visit the massive Recoleta Cemetary (where you can find the tomb of Eva Peron). I especially recommend Graffitimundo, a great tour of Buenos Aires street art and graffiti, for an inside look at a burgeoning art scene and neighborhoods a bit off the normal tourist route. If you go in mid-November as I did, you can catch the Argentine Polo Open, which I quite enjoyed.
As for cuisine, Buenos Aires is widely known for their red meat and red wine. I had fantastic meals at Don Julio (Guatemala 4691 in Palermo Soho) and El Trapiche (Paraguay 5099 in El Centro). I also dined at what is widely considered the best restaurant in town, Cabaña Las Lilas (A.M. de Justo 516 in Puerto Madero). While Cabaña Las Lilas was quite good and takes full advantage of their picturesque setting, I definitely preferred the atmosphere of Don Julio and El Trapiche, both of which felt more locally authentic and less touristy. It is also worth noting that most of my dinners — with multiple courses and wine — tended to run between $25 and $40 per person. Also, make sure not to miss Cafe Tortoni (Avenida De Mayo 825), the oldest coffee shop in all of Argentina, founded in 1858.
Parting notes: WiFi is plentiful in the city so no need to run up massive roaming data charges. // Bring the plug adapter for Australia and not the one marked “South America.” For some reason, Argentina uses slanted prongs unlike the rest of the continent. // You won’t need a visa, but upon arrival you will have to pay a fee equal to the amount the US charges Argentines for US visas. Currently that amount is $140, but it will also cover any other entries over the next ten years.
You can see the rest of my photos from Buenos Aires here.
Field Notes: The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. at the Rose Bowl Flea
October 27th, 2011 § 1 Comment
Now, when I say that I am originally from Los Angeles, it’s kind of like the geographic equivalent of rounding up to 10 from 7. How so? It’s because I actually spent the majority of my formative years in little place slightly to the north and west of Los Angeles proper, known to some of you simply as “The Valley.” Yes, the location of the party where Tai took a shoe to the head and went on to roll with the homies. Yes, the place that you have to thank for the “like” that permeates the vernacular. Yes, the San Fernando Valley. Like, oh my God.
Granted, The Valley is kind of like the red-headed stepchild of the Southern California family. It’s not regarded as especially cool or interesting, but rather, frankly, as being kind of lame. My mother, who was born and raised in Los Angeles, can’t even remember going there once as a child because, as she put it, “Why would you?” Perhaps I wear my pride somewhat internally, but when it gets down to it, I have so much love for my Valley and the years I spent there. I totally embrace my inner Valley Girl.
So you can imagine how happy I was a few months ago to discover The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co., purveyors of fine vintage American-made workwear from 1930-1970 and handmade, utility-inspired dry goods/accessories. And when I realized they had their own take on the classic tool bag, very much like those I had been admiring by a few other designers, but automatically and infinitely so much better because of its Valley origins, I might have geeked out a bit. So of course, I shot off a note to learn more about their bags and the operation at large.
In short order, I received a lovely reply from Warren Schummer, the man behind San Fernando Mercantile Co., as well as Vintage Workwear, a blog focusing on vintage workwear from the 1940s through the 1970s. It turned out Warren’s Valley roots were a bit more established than mine, as his go back three generations, and helped shape his addiction to workwear:
I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, particularly Sylmar in my youth, then left and spent a few years spent in Huntington Beach. Came back to Studio City for my teens and 20s, Sherman Oaks for the 30s and then to Tarzana in the west valley for the past 10 odd years, give or take. My pops owned an auto body repair shop on Ventura Blvd in Studio City where he specialized in German cars including Porsche and Mercedes Benz cars in particular. That environment in addition to my Grandfather working at the now defunct Chevrolet plant in Van Nuys helped shape my love of work clothing.
Warren began collecting — actually, he called it “hoarding” — workwear and soon came to realize that the best way to support his collecting habit was by parting with some of his pieces. This led to a stall at the Rose Bowl Flea Market (#3282), where he has been in residence for more than 18 months now, on the second Sunday of every month. Warren also owns All Valley Handyman Service, which provides him with the opportunity to wear his vintage on the job.
Wanting to apply the inspiration he found in vintage to the creation of new merchandise, Warren began with a small run of work caps made from vintage fabrics, selvedge denim and brown duck, which did well. With the success of the caps, bags were the obvious next step and a tote and tool bag-inspired bag soon followed. Warren is intensely involved in the design and construction process, seemingly coming just short of sewing everything himself — which I think he probably would try to do, if he could. All of San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.’s merchandise is made in the USA, with most of it made in Southern California.
After hearing and loving all of this, I knew that I desperately wanted one of Warren’s bags and that I would definitely be stopping by stall #3282 on my upcoming (at the time) visit to the Rose Bowl Flea. A few short weeks flew by and I found myself in the sweltering Pasadena sun at the Flea. I dragged along Nick — of the rather awesome Tumblr No Secrets Between Sailors (and also Instagram: nosecretsbetweensailors) — and made him show me the ropes.
The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. was our first stop. Nick and I had a good long visit with Warren and his lovely lady Michele, while taking shelter in the shade of the tent and slowly perusing an amazing selection of workwear merchandise. We also discussed the specifics for one of his glorious 16″ bags that will be making its way to me in New York in the near future. Of course you’ll receive the full rundown when it arrives. Such a great afternoon.
Warren and Michele.
Nick.
The vintage inspiration…
…for their bags.
Vintage Cat’s Paw keychains.
If you are at the Rose Bowl Flea, be sure not to miss the The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. If you can’t make it out to Pasadena, check the shop out online, as well as the store blog, and the Vintage Workwear blog.
Field Notes: Big Sur. Big Paradise.
October 18th, 2011 § 10 Comments
Big Sur was pristine, remote and breathtakingly beautiful.
If you haven’t yet made the trip along PCH, move it to the top of your list.
Immediately...
Redwood morning.
Big Sur is the California that men dreamed of years ago, this is the Pacific that Balboa looked at from the Peak of Darien, this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.
Henry Miller
The blue sky adds “Dont call me eternity, call me God if you like, all of you talkers are in paradise: the leaf is paradise, the tree stump is paradise, the paper bag is paradise, the man is paradise, the fog is paradise”
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Breakfast at Big Sur Bakery.
Partington Cove.
The sea swirls up but seems subdued — It’s not like being alone down in the vast hell writing the sounds of the sea.
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Pacific fury flashing on rocks that rise like gloomy sea shroud towers out of the cove, the bingbang cove with its seas booming inside caves and slapping out, the cities of seaweed floating up and down you can even see their dark leer in the phosphorescent seabeach nightlight
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
Bixby Bridge, built in 1932.
A few Allagash Whites at Post Ranch Inn.
Sleep at Deetjens, the original Big Sur roadhouse. Built in the 1930s.
Fotos: PCH ~ Los Angeles to Big Sur
October 14th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
Santa Monica palms.
As I mentioned, I’ve been travelling this week along the California coast on the Pacific Coast Highway. I’ve got a million pictures — is this boring? are these like boring vacation slides your great uncle made you look at? — and here are some of my favorite moments from the drive north from Los Angeles to Big Sur.
La Super-Rica Taqueria
622 N Milpas St
Santa Barbara, CA 93103
Amazing Mexican food.
If you are in Santa Barbara, you must make a point to stop at La Super-Rica.
Have we discussed my horchata addiction? It’s ridiculous.
Old Mission Santa Barbara
2201 Laguna St
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
The Santa Barbara Mission was the tenth of the California Missions to be founded by the Spanish Franciscans. It was established on the Feast of St. Barbara, December 4, 1786.
Morro Bay.
Elephant seals at the Piedras Blancas rookery.
Sunset near Big Sur.
Fotos: Los Angeles Union Station
October 11th, 2011 § 7 Comments
Los Angeles Union Station, the “Last of the Great Railway Stations.”
The station opened in 1939 and it is one of my favorite places in LA.
Fotos: Wooden Sleepers x Goose Barnacle at Atlantic Antic
October 4th, 2011 § 2 Comments
Just a few photos from the Atlantic Antic over the weekend. It was my first time at the mile-long street fair, now in its 37th year, and it was a perfect fall afternoon spent wandering among vendors of all sorts, plenty of live music and all kinds of street food. At the top of my Antic to-do list was a visit of the Wooden Sleepers pop-up at Goose Barnacle.
Wooden Sleepers, a collection of vintage men’s clothing, accessories and curiosities, is the brainchild and passion of Mr. Brian Davis, a self-professed vintage addict. An eagle-eyed collector, Brian somehow manages to part with many of his amazing finds (although I’m convinced he must be sitting on treasure trove) through his online store and at pop-ups. Brian’s partnering with Goose Barnacle, David Alperin’s lovely shop, made perfect sense. With a similarly discerning eye, Alperin stocks his diminutive store with a choice selection of stylish, high quality menswear, accessories and other particulars.
David Alperin (left) and Brian Davis
David and the lovely Marisa.
I’m rather obsessed with the stingy brimmed cap that David has on…
It’s his own design, and he assures me that he will be stocking them in the future.
Visit Goose Barnacle at:
91 Atlantic Avenue
Brooklyn, N.Y. 11201
Also on Twitter
Fotos: Portsmouth and Points Beyond
August 7th, 2011 § 2 Comments
Moments from my New England weekend.
Shirt via G1 Goods // Shorts // Moccasins // Ray-Bans // Tote
“Ah, summer – what power you have to make us suffer and like it.”
Russell Baker
Fotos: Scenes from a New York Staycation {aka 4th of July weekend}
July 5th, 2011 § 4 Comments
Brooklyn Bridge.
First off, apologies to those of you that already follow me on Instagram, because these shots will be a bit repetitive. I had a guest from LA visit me for a few days and I took some time off this week to wander around the city and be a tourist too. I also managed to get some beach time, heading out on my first trip to Fort Tilden. Also caught Woody Allen’s latest and greatest. All in all, a welcome and much-needed minibreak.
Father Demo Square
Trinity Church
Stone Street
Washington Square Park
Petrossian restaurant in the Alwyn Court Building
The Chrysler Building
East River Bridges
Getting to Fort Tilden was quite easy. Catch a ferry from Pier 11, enjoy a few drinks on hourlong boat ride (which passes underneath the Verrazano and goes past Coney Island), and get dropped off a block away from the beach. While it’s not the most family-friendly set up (not a lot of bathrooms or concession stands and no lifeguards at all) the beach is beautiful and usually rather deserted. If you’re so inclined, clothing-optional sunbathing is fine. I kept it continental, but I did see a few fully nude gents and ladies — so if that’s not your thing, consider yourself forewarned.
Verrazano Bridge
“The observatory deck on top of Battery Harris East, a historic gun site, offers dramatic views of Jamaica Bay and New York Harbor, and is a great vantage point to spot migrating birds.”
Saturday’s summer storm in SoHo.
On Saturday I popped by the Angelika Theatre to see Midnight in Paris (a must see!) with Marisa, and then did a lovely bit of wandering, culminating with us solidly parking ourselves in the window seat of Mud Coffee in the East Village for a few hours.
Battery Park Marina
Evidently there are tango dancers in Union Square every Sunday…
Picnicking in Central Park
One World Trade Center.
Fotos: Brooklyn Flea
April 11th, 2011 § 7 Comments
**Updated**
A lot of people have shown interest in the details on the Brooklyn Flea, so I’ve got a quick update for inquiring minds. The Flea is on Saturdays in Fort Greene and Sundays in Williamsburg, 10am to 5pm, rain or shine.
Fort Greene
176 Lafayette Ave. (btw. Clermont + Vanderbilt Ave.)
Williamsburg
27 North 6th St. (btw. Kent Ave. + East River)
Brooklyn Flea’s website, Twitter and Facebook.
Enjoy!
Fotos: Patience and Fortitude in the Snow
January 9th, 2011 § Leave a Comment
There are few things I love more than Patience and Fortitude, the lions outside the New York Public Library.
Fotos: Brooks Brothers Fleece Fall 2010 ~ 346 Madison Ave Flagship
September 9th, 2010 § Leave a Comment
Was at the Brooks Brothers flagship for a completely unrelated bit of browsing when I happened upon the display for their relatively new children’s line, called “Fleece,” on the second floor. While both the boys’ and girls’ lines are charming, I feel the girls’ line (and display) has a slight edge. The looks for the girls have such a fresh take on the classic prep school style: pinstriped oxford shirt dresses with contrast piping, ties and bow ties used liberally, lots of fun contrasting colors, etc. As for the displays and merchandising, all of my pictures are from the girls’ side.
The boys’ line, while classic and of high quality, doesn’t really break any new ground. Looked more like BB had simply miniaturized and rehashed old mens’ lines and displays. With such innovation on the girls’ side, I expected the some for the boys as well, but perhaps this is the one example where Brooks Brothers finally does a superior line for females. (I’ve always been a bit of a disappointed Brooks Brothers womenswear shopper, can you tell?) I have to admit, this lopsidedness was surprising to me — until I found out the primary designer for Fleece was a woman. Aha!
For more on Fleece – head over to the Brooks Brothers site here.
The only thing more adorable than the store display is the ad campaign.
What is a classic?
a. The #2 pencil. In yellow.
b. An ancient Greek story.
c. Fleece: Brooks Brothers’ new collection for children.
Answer: all the above. A classic is like a secret. Pass it on…from sibling to sibling, one generation to the next.
The little girl in the bow tie! J’adore!
