22/09/2011 § 3 Comments
Desperately trying to not get carried away here. You already know how I feel about Sir Smith (please refer to my adoration of his fall/winter 2011). Suffice it to say that in a field of a very unsatisfying — at least for me — shows at London Fashion Week, Paul Smith hit the cover off the ball (as he always does). Menswear infused, slouchy and tousled, I often feel like Sir Smith is designing with me in mind. While I may aspire to the glittering heights of Mr. Lauren, my day-to-day is much closer to this aesthetic (case in point: I have been called out on my frequent employment of the “bro tuck” by my mostly male team at the office). Detractors will point out that Sir Smith has long been playing it safe with his designs. I’d argue that there are plenty of women out there that value his collections distinctly because they are classic, because they are timeless. We can’t all be Daphne Guinness, and nor should we want to be…
Paul Smith sent pleats, plaid and pinstripes down the runway. The shoes were amazing. For spring 2012, the Paul Smith woman sometimes rolls up the sleeves on her blazer and sometimes forgets to brush her hair. She wears her shirts unbuttoned down to there…or sometimes doesn’t wear a shirt underneath her blazer. She might be a little mod. She’s sexy, but not in the conventional manner.
Few of my favorite looks from the show below.
To see everything, head over to Vogue.
Few things to note:
Marcio Medeira is fast becoming my favorite runway photographer. These pictures, along with his shots from the Ralph Lauren show, blew my mind.
AND – Diana, aka Miss Moss, made an amaze collage of this show that you must see!
All images via Vogue.
16/09/2011 § 2 Comments
…they keep pulling me back in.” — Michael Corleone
I suppose I should have never doubted that Ralph Lauren would be my favorite from NYFW. We go way, way back. And this time around I flirted with the idea of another man, but the indomitable Mr. Lauren didn’t care. He waited. He reclinated. He knew that when he would drop his glittering collection on my head, I’d come running right back to his side. He knew that I wouldn’t ever be able to say no to him…
The man was right.
For spring 2012, while most other collections showed influences of the 1930s and 40s, Mr. Lauren reached back even further to a decade he is most comfortable with — the 1920s. And why not? His costumes for Jack Clayton’s Gatsby are constantly referenced by fashion and costume designers. Why not seize upon spring’s nostalgia, ratchet up the glamour and hit his own sweet spot? Textbook really. These are clothes for both Daisy Buchanan and Jordan Baker, and you probably already know I tend to like Jordan a bit more… If you were looking for 1920s with an edge, for the ironic jazz age, you won’t find it here, because that is not what Mr. Lauren does. You need to go talk to Thom Browne if that’s what you want, because that’s what he showed this week. Mr. Lauren is unfailingly earnest, and you will either find this boring, or love it to death as I do. Ralph Lauren is not an iconoclast — he is an icon. And it is a dying breed at that…
Mr. Lauren’s spring 2012 is iridescent, feathered, and jeweled. It is club-collared, double-breasted and cuffed. The palazzo pant is making a return. You better learn how to tie a tie and how to wear a cloche hat. And above all, get thyself to a fabulous ball because these gorgeous silk gowns, they are screaming to be worn.
Now, I had to restrain myself here. Of course I wanted to post it all down to the last drop, but if you really want to see every outfit, you can head over to Vogue for that. And I highly recommend you do because photographer Marcio Madeira had a field day. His shots are A.Maz.Ing. What I wanted to share with you, were some of my favorite looks, coupled with some of my favorite detail shots (Madeira blew my mind with these — I have yet to see any other runway detail shots that are this lavish, this indulgent).
Ready? Let’s Charleston…
Well done, sir.
All images via Vogue.