29/01/2013 § 2 Comments
I’ll admit it, I’d written off Thom Browne. My love for his menswear designs notwithstanding, I tended to find his collections for women severely lacking, year after year. We had knee-length pearl necklaces one year, unwalkable skirts another, and an alarming affinity for shirt dresses that appeared to be stolen from a Dickensian orphanage. Browne’s designs for women appeared to be more costume than clothing, as if he wasn’t quite sure he could pull off a serious collection — so he didn’t bother to try (see: Fall/Winter 2011; Spring/Summer 2013) So I resigned myself to enjoying Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers, which takes the inventive, tailored qualities favored by Browne (and me!) but adds a high dose of wearability — it is a Brooks Brothers line, after all — and forgot about Thom Browne.
That is, until January 21, 2013 — the morning of Barack Obama’s second inauguration. I heard murmurs that the Obama women were sporting a set of beautiful coats, but when Eric Wilson of the NYT mentioned something about bespoke Thom Browne, made especially for the First Lady, I made a beeline for the television to see the gorgeous silk jacquard — inspired by necktie fabrics, natch — for myself. The whole family looked lovely, but Michelle’s coat/dress ensemble was definitely the pièce de résistance.
It was in that moment I began to hope that Thom Browne had finally changed course, and I am happy to say that his 2013 Pre-Fall collection has confirmed it. No longer bogged down with clever tricks and over-the-top conceptualism, Browne’s 2013 Pre-Fall is actually wearable and smartly tailored, but still retains the tongue-in-cheekiness quality that is classic Browne. I’m not sure what inspired this sudden maturity, but I’m loving it — to say that I’m excited would be a massive understatement. My American Express card on the other hand…probably a little less so. But I’m sure we’ll get through it together.
All images via Thom Browne.
20/10/2011 § Leave a comment
Another grey trouser?? you’re saying right now. But no! This is completely different. Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers has a lovely black and white Prince of Wales check on a wool and cashmere trouser that I found myself admiring more than a little at the Bleecker Street Black Fleece shop a few weeks ago. Like blackwatch tartan, the Prince of Wales check is another pattern I find myself drawn to this fall. Fun fact: the pattern — also known as glen plaid — is called Prince of Wales because the Duke of Windsor popularized wearing it when he was the Prince of Wales.
Similarly in love? Find them here.
You should know that while I have a distinct weakness for Black Fleece — which is essentially all that I like about Thom Browne with a dash of wearability — I definitely think it is a smidge overpriced. Hence the “StapleSplurge.” My best Black Fleece scores have been thrifted. I might tell you where, if you ask really nicely… If $350 is a bit steep, try these from Paul Smith (on sale!), these from Incotex (also on sale!), or these from Banana Republic.
18/01/2011 § Leave a comment
Much has already been made of Thom Browne’s amazing showing in Milano of his Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2011 Menswear line, and I admit that I was green with envy over how smart the line is — I still think Thom has yet to get his designs for women as beautiful as those for the men — but the video (via ESQ) let me see the drama of the show in action. The pictures, amazingly, didn’t do it any justice — the venue, models, horses and beagles… It’s almost too much to take in. Almost.
J’adore and tally-ho!