Featured: Quite Continental on StyleLikeU ~ Addictions: Neckties
18/11/2011 § 3 Comments
A few weeks ago I sat down with StyleLikeU to talk about my somewhat obsessive relationship with one of my favorite articles of clothing: the necktie. I am happy to share the finished product with you today. If you were ever curious why I wear them and who ties my knots, you are in luck — and you’ll also get a peek at my growing collection.
A big thank you to the StyleLikeU ladies. Shooting this was a lot of fun.
I can’t say that it isn’t kind of weird watching myself on video, though. Do I really talk like that?
Happy Veterans Day
11/11/2011 § 1 Comment
Armistice Day, New York, 1919.
Victory Arch.
Veterans Day was originally celebrated as Armistice Day, commemorating the day that the Great War ended, which at the time was thought to be the “War to End all Wars.” By 1939 it became apparent that this ideal would unfortunately not bear out and the holiday was expanded in 1953 to honor all veterans, living or dead. Veterans Day has my father, grandfather, great uncle and many other friends and family members who have proudly served our country front of mind today — not least of all because the parade will be passing my office on Fifth Avenue. To each and every one of them, I owe a deep debt of gratitude and I admire their commitment and bravery. Thank you.
Happy Veterans Day.
Armistice Day, New York , 1919.
Colonel Donovan and staff of 165th Infantry, passing under the Victory Arch.
Armistice Day, Virginia, 1943.
Arlington National Cemetery, Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
Images via US National Archives and LIFE Archives.
LIFE Archives: New Hampshire Girls’ ROTC, 1942
07/11/2011 § 1 Comment
Study: Wintry Contrast
07/11/2011 § Leave a comment
President Theodore Roosevelt, 1903, by John Singer Sargent.
The descent of nearly three inches of snow on New York on Halloween, had me snowbound and bundled in my bed for a good few hours, watching the swirling flurries fall from the darkened sky. This wintry contrast was echoed when I took in a performance of 69°South at BAM this week, a dramatic interpretation of the ill-fated Endurance Expedition headed up by Sir Ernest Shackleton in 1914. The show was an remarkably creative retelling of an amazing story of perseverance and survival, set on the barren ice floes of Antarctica. Fittingly, the stage was almost entirely white, with the dark woolens of the marionettes standing out in stark contrast. The show immediately made me want to see the actual pictures from the expedition, taken by its official photographer, Frank Hurley.
Hurley photographing the Endurance.
Hurley’s pictures of the ship Endurance are among the most interesting to me. The juxtaposition of the dark, hulking ship, trapped and ultimately claimed by the ice, are striking. Everything is darkness and light. Desperation and the stubborn emergence of life. Snow and ice everywhere.
Initially outfitted with a full retinue of camera equipment, when the Endurance was abandoned Hurley was required to strip down his gear to the essentials. He was left with a single vest pocket Kodak camera and three rolls of film. He took only 38 photographs throughout the remainder of the expedition, which lasted over two years. They, along with the 120 glass negatives he saved, document the long, difficult trip back to civilization.
Shackleton. All Hurley photographs via State Library of New South Wales.
The wintry contrast also reminded me of one of my favorite American painters, John Singer Sargent (January 12, 1856 – April 14, 1925), and his luxurious Edwardian portraits. Sargent, an American expat born in Italy with deep familial roots in New England, was a fabulously successful portraitist during his lifetime, capturing some of the most important figures in American and European society. Emerging from a yawning, darkened background, Sargent often draws the viewer’s attention to a gleaming shirt collar, a bit of lace or a flash of porcelain skin… Not unlike snow I saw, silently falling on Halloween or the vast ice floes in Hurley’s photographs. Life emerging. Light emerging. Darkness and light.
The story of the impending winter months…
Alice Vanderbilt Shepard, 1888.
Elizabeth Winthrop Chanler (Mrs. John Jay Chapman), 1893.
Edith, Lady Playfair (Edith Russell), 1884.
Homer Saint-Gaudens and his Mother, 1890.
Mrs. Joshua Montgomery Sears, 1899.
American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (February 27, 1807 – March 24, 1882) is noted for his lyrical style and was the most famous poet of his time. Born in Portland, Maine, he no doubt was well familiar with the stark beauty of snowy winters. I love the image of the snow as shaken from the garments of “Air,” represented as a mythical woman in his poem Snow-flakes — so quietly sad, yet beautiful.
Snow-flakes
By Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
Thus, these men who were the most important in their fields — polar exploration, portraiture, and poetry — in their lifetimes, all have me thinking about the winter months that are to come.
Happy Halloween!
31/10/2011 § 1 Comment
John, John-John and Caroline in the Oval Office. Halloween 1963.
Image via the US National Archives.
Imagineering The Haunted Mansion
31/10/2011 § Leave a comment
Fact: I refused to enter the Haunted Mansion at Disneyland until I was 13 years old. Too scary for this little scaredy-cat. It’s since become one of my favorite attractions at the park, with its herky-jerky animatronics, doom buggies and hitchhiking ghosts. On Halloween, my thoughts always turn to this lovely antebellum mansion, and I thought I might share a bit about the creation of the ride. Of special interest in this video is the appearance of Harriet Burns, the first Disney woman Imagineer, at the two minute mark in part 1.
LIFE Archives: Nantucket Boys In Winter, 1959
27/10/2011 § 1 Comment
From the article The Winter Joys of Children Summer Left Behind.
Published in LIFE Magazine February 23, 1959.
Under a cold winter sky a knot of Nantucketers, among them the three boys at right, watch incoming steamer Nobska stuck in the ice with its cargo of food and mail for the island.
Muffled in parkas, Dana Perkins, 10 (left), Bruce Bartlett, 12, and Jack Peters, 14 (holding his .22), go off to hunt rabbits on the moors.
All photographs by Alfred Eisenstaedt, via the LIFE Archives.
Field Notes: The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. at the Rose Bowl Flea
27/10/2011 § 2 Comments
Now, when I say that I am originally from Los Angeles, it’s kind of like the geographic equivalent of rounding up to 10 from 7. How so? It’s because I actually spent the majority of my formative years in little place slightly to the north and west of Los Angeles proper, known to some of you simply as “The Valley.” Yes, the location of the party where Tai took a shoe to the head and went on to roll with the homies. Yes, the place that you have to thank for the “like” that permeates the vernacular. Yes, the San Fernando Valley. Like, oh my God.
Granted, The Valley is kind of like the red-headed stepchild of the Southern California family. It’s not regarded as especially cool or interesting, but rather, frankly, as being kind of lame. My mother, who was born and raised in Los Angeles, can’t even remember going there once as a child because, as she put it, “Why would you?” Perhaps I wear my pride somewhat internally, but when it gets down to it, I have so much love for my Valley and the years I spent there. I totally embrace my inner Valley Girl.
So you can imagine how happy I was a few months ago to discover The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co., purveyors of fine vintage American-made workwear from 1930-1970 and handmade, utility-inspired dry goods/accessories. And when I realized they had their own take on the classic tool bag, very much like those I had been admiring by a few other designers, but automatically and infinitely so much better because of its Valley origins, I might have geeked out a bit. So of course, I shot off a note to learn more about their bags and the operation at large.
In short order, I received a lovely reply from Warren Schummer, the man behind San Fernando Mercantile Co., as well as Vintage Workwear, a blog focusing on vintage workwear from the 1940s through the 1970s. It turned out Warren’s Valley roots were a bit more established than mine, as his go back three generations, and helped shape his addiction to workwear:
I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, particularly Sylmar in my youth, then left and spent a few years spent in Huntington Beach. Came back to Studio City for my teens and 20s, Sherman Oaks for the 30s and then to Tarzana in the west valley for the past 10 odd years, give or take. My pops owned an auto body repair shop on Ventura Blvd in Studio City where he specialized in German cars including Porsche and Mercedes Benz cars in particular. That environment in addition to my Grandfather working at the now defunct Chevrolet plant in Van Nuys helped shape my love of work clothing.
Warren began collecting — actually, he called it “hoarding” — workwear and soon came to realize that the best way to support his collecting habit was by parting with some of his pieces. This led to a stall at the Rose Bowl Flea Market (#3282), where he has been in residence for more than 18 months now, on the second Sunday of every month. Warren also owns All Valley Handyman Service, which provides him with the opportunity to wear his vintage on the job.
Wanting to apply the inspiration he found in vintage to the creation of new merchandise, Warren began with a small run of work caps made from vintage fabrics, selvedge denim and brown duck, which did well. With the success of the caps, bags were the obvious next step and a tote and tool bag-inspired bag soon followed. Warren is intensely involved in the design and construction process, seemingly coming just short of sewing everything himself — which I think he probably would try to do, if he could. All of San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.’s merchandise is made in the USA, with most of it made in Southern California.
After hearing and loving all of this, I knew that I desperately wanted one of Warren’s bags and that I would definitely be stopping by stall #3282 on my upcoming (at the time) visit to the Rose Bowl Flea. A few short weeks flew by and I found myself in the sweltering Pasadena sun at the Flea. I dragged along Nick — of the rather awesome Tumblr No Secrets Between Sailors (and also Instagram: nosecretsbetweensailors) — and made him show me the ropes.
The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. was our first stop. Nick and I had a good long visit with Warren and his lovely lady Michele, while taking shelter in the shade of the tent and slowly perusing an amazing selection of workwear merchandise. We also discussed the specifics for one of his glorious 16″ bags that will be making its way to me in New York in the near future. Of course you’ll receive the full rundown when it arrives. Such a great afternoon.
Nick.
If you are at the Rose Bowl Flea, be sure not to miss the The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. If you can’t make it out to Pasadena, check the shop out online, as well as the store blog, and the Vintage Workwear blog.
Real Property Lust: Meanwhile, Back at the Ranch…
26/10/2011 § Leave a comment
There were plenty of things to love about this Spanish-style California ranch home belonging to supermodel Tatjana Patitz: the endless light, the double high living room ceiling (Patitz actually knocked out a floor to make way for it), dark wood and white walls, gleaming concrete floors, the horse stables that are on the two acres of land that surround the house, the ocean views, the jumble of mismatched furnishings…
What sealed the deal was the bedroom.
This is a place to disappear for hours. For days.
In. Love.
All images via House to Home.
Rabbit Hole: Victorian Child Criminals of Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction
25/10/2011 § 3 Comments
All taken between the years of 1871 and 1873, these photographs of child criminals who served time in Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction are so very intriguing to me. Initially because none of the inmates shown here are yet 20 years old, and for their various crimes and corresponding sentences (usually petty thievery and hard labor). Aside from the relatively rare opportunity to view the stark poverty and desperation that underlined the Victorian era on a individual and personal level, what struck me is that each “mugshot” is rather theatrically posed.
Why is this?
Is it because photographs were such a rarity at the time, especially for these subjects, that they were afforded the opportunity to ham it up for the gaoler’s photographer? Perhaps they were posed in an effort to humiliate? I suppose I will never know, but I still am lost down a Victorian rabbit hole, looking at these amazing photographs…
Jane Farrell stole 2 boots and was sentenced to do 10 hard days labour.
Age (on discharge): 12
Height: 4.2
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Henry Leonard Stephenson was convicted of breaking in to houses and was sentenced to 2 months in prison in 1873
Age (on discharge): 12
Height: 4.5
Hair: Dark
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Castle Eden
Mary Hinnigan was caught stealing iron and was sentenced to do 7 days hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 13
Height: 5.0½
Hair: Light Brown
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Newcastle
James Donneley, also known as James Darley, at the age of just 16, this young man had been in and out of prison, but on this occasion he was sentenced for 2 months for stealing some shirts.
Age:16
Height:5.0
Hair: Brown
Eyes:Hazel
Place of Birth: Shotley Bridge
Work: Labourer
Mary Catherine Docherty was sentenced to 7 days hard labour after being convicted of stealing iron.
Age (on discharge): 14
Height: 4.9
Hair: Red
Eyes: Dark Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Henry Miller was charged with the theft of clothing and sentenced to 14 days hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 14
Height: 4.5
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Berwick
Occupation: Confectioner
Wait, Henry was a candy-maker??
Alice Mullholland was sentenced to 3 months after being convicted of stealing some boots.
Age (on discharge): 18
Height: 5.0¼
Hair: Dark Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
John Divine was imprisoned for 6 months after stealing money from another person.
Age (on discharge): 17
Height: 5.7
Hair: Dark Brown
Eyes: Grey
Place of Birth: Ireland
Occupation: Carver and Guilder
Isabella Hindmarch was convicted of stealing money, she had no previous convictions and served 1 month with hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 16
Height: 4’5 1/2”
Hair: Light Brown
Eyes: Dark Blue
Place of Birth: Gateshead
Occupation: Servant
Richard Rimmington was convicted of stealing a pipe from a shop and was expected to serve 14 days with hard labour. He was spared his sentence when his parents agreed to pay costs and the resulting fine.
Age (on discharge): 15
Height: 4’2 1/2”
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Grey
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Occupation: None
John Park was convicted of stealing a violin, he had no previous convictions and served 1 month with hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 19
Height: 5’6 1/2”
Hair: Dark
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Scotland
Occupation: Cartman and Soldier, 14th Brigade RA
If you’d like to wander through the full set of portraits of the inmates of Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction from 1871 to 1873, head here.
Pictures and inmate information via Tyne & Wear Archives & Museums.






























































