Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet F/W ’12 Lookbook (Styled by Me!)
07/05/2012 § 19 Comments
It’s here!
Very happy to share with you some of the looks I created for the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet F/W ’12 Lookbook! As I mentioned in my behind-the-scenes post last week, the lookbook features an amazing collection of shoes by the lovely Brooklyn designer Samantha Pleet for Wolverine 1000 Mile, an American footwear company that has been in existence since 1883. Based in Rockford, Michigan, Wolverine 1000 Mile is probably best known for their handsome workboots, worn by the hardworking people who built America’s railroads, highways and skyscrapers.
It is the first full-range shoe collection designed by Samantha Pleet, who best known for her whimsical apparel collections that frequently feature menswear-inspired details. Her venture into footwear is especially apropos, considering her genealogy, with a great-grandmother who owned a shoe store and a grandfather who was a shoemaker. The shoes made their debut at New York Fashion Week, at Samantha’s runway show, to great success.
I was ecstatic to be brought onboard to style the lookbook! Working closely with Samantha and the great folks at Wolverine, I created a collection of looks inspired by the same amazing group of women who inspired Samantha’s designs. Composed of vintage clothing from the amazing guys at Brooklyn Dry Goods, gorgeous accessories supplied by The Shiny Squirrel, some of Samantha’s own designs and even some of my own vintage pieces, I hoped to show how versatile the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet can be.
And, if I may quote myself (weird, sorry!) from the lookbook:
It was important to me to honor the spirit of adventure and independence and while creating looks for the modern woman, no matter if her adventures take her on safari in Kenya or on the subway downtown to the office. As a girl who wears men’s shoes on occasion, I really love the subtlety of the Samantha Pleet x Wolverine 1K Mile collection. Samantha doesn’t simply design men’s shoes for women, she combines the best of both worlds and has created something nuanced, nostalgic, but completely modern.
Last, but certainly not least, I had the privilege of working with the exceptionally talented photographer Mikael Kennedy, who took these amazing photographs.
Head here to view the lookbook!
I hope you like it! I would love to hear your comments!
The Blixen boot.
Karen Blixen is the fearless romantic, the Out of Africa writer who left her native Denmark to establish a coffee plantation in Kenya. When I think of Karen, I think of genteel safaris, of imported finery in the wilderness, with plenty of khaki and well-worn leather. As I mixed vintage pieces with Samantha’s designs I felt as Karen must have, pairing romance with rough-and-tumble. For the Blixen boot, I wanted each of these sides to show through – with one look reading more conventionally feminine and the other a bit more tomboyish.
The Earhart boot.
Amelia Earhart is travel personified. She wanted to go everywhere, see everything – an adventurer for adventure’s sake. When I think of Amelia, what immediately comes to mind are the trappings of an aviator, e.g., fleece-collared bombers and silk scarves, two of her personal signatures. Here we stayed very close to Amelia’s own aesthetic, but the look is softened a silk blouse and romantic hair.
The Nesbit boot.
Evelyn Nesbit is the chameleon. From humble beginnings, she reinvented herself as a chorus girl, actress and muse – so I really wanted to show versatile the beautiful kiltie boots she inspired Samantha to create.
The Nesbit oxford.
The Nesbit kiltie oxford is a true year-round, day-to-night shoe that will take you from the office, to the weekend, and everywhere in between. The tomboy in me loves their dandy details with a dress or with cuffed trousers and no socks.
The Bonny boot.
Anne Bonny is a woman to be reckoned with, as she was one of the most infamous female pirates in history. For this look I embraced the flamboyance of what Anne might have worn herself, pairing vintage ruffles with one of Samantha’s amazing capes. I love the colors of this boot – it really widens your palette possibilities when creating outfits.
For updates on the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet:
Blog || Facebook || Twitter || E-mail
For more information on apparel by Samantha Pleet:
Site || Twitter
All photographs by Mikael Kennedy, courtesy of Wolverine 1000 Mile.
Behind the Scenes || QC Styles the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet Lookbook
04/05/2012 § 2 Comments
Big news!
A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of styling the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection by Samantha Pleet Fall/Winter 2012 lookbook, and I am very excited to let you know that it will be released this upcoming Monday! I’m especially proud of everyone’s work on the finished product and can’t wait to share it with you next week!
In the meantime, your exclusive look behind the scenes:
Casting in Samantha’s atelier.
Getting ready for our first shot of the day with model Anna: (from left) Christina Vernon from Wolverine, photographer Mikael Kennedy, designer Samantha Pleet and Marshall Davis from Wolverine
Anna’s gorgeous vintage jacket is courtesy of Brooklyn Dry Goods.
Photo courtesy of BPMW
Me putting the finishing touches on model Victoria,
with gorgeous accessories supplied by The Shiny Squirrel.
Shoe-palooza! The entire collection is so gorgeous, isn’t it?
You can imagine my dismay at not being the sample size.
Hair by Kristin Sky Olsen.
Our amazingly talented photographer Mikael Kennedy, was a joy to work with!
Also of note, Mikael just returned from an epic trip across the country with fellow photographer Sean Sullivan, founder of the blog The Impossible Cool. Called Ramblers Bone, they documented their journey in breathtaking, wanderlust-inducing photographic detail that you must check out immediately.
Accessories by Ax + Apple, Elizabeth Knight Jewelry,
Species by the Thousands and Cursive Design; courtesy of The Shiny Squirrel
Binder clips are a stylist’s best friend.
Photo courtesy of BPMW
Me and Anna. Sidenote: Did you notice my straight hair?!
Marshall’s expert shoe-tying technique.
Shoot at the BPMW showroom.
Don’t forget to check back in with me on Monday for the lookbook reveal!
So excited!
For more information on the Wolverine 1000 Mile Collection
by Samantha Pleet, head here.
**UPDATE 5/7/2012**
See my post on the lookbook here.
All Dressed Up…in Los Angeles.
23/04/2012 § Leave a comment
Richard Gere adds Armani to the echelon of California style with its debut in American Gigolo (1980), which I recently revisited thanks to Lizzie’s suggestion. A seminal moment in menswear, it marked the introduction of a new Italian aesthetic that became characteristic of the decade.
**Update 5/4/2012 — The blog Clothes on Film did a fantastic rundown of the costuming, which you can find here.
I especially love how the film captures the westside at that moment when the 1970s were turning to the 1980s, and watching a 30 year-old (and let’s face it, beautiful) Gere as he navigates the city as one of its “best boys.” Other high points include the Blondie-infused soundtrack, Lauren Hutton, and the fact that Gere’s character lives in Westwood, which is where I lived before moving to New York.
Portrait by Herb Ritts, 1980.
Part of “L.A. Style: Herb Ritts” at the Getty Center. Details here.
Also: just a quick note to let you know I’m in Los Angeles for a few days! I wanted to surprise my parents, and they read this thing, so I couldn’t mention it beforehand. Happy to report my sneak attack was successful!
PF Flyers: Honoring American Style Since 1937
11/04/2012 § Leave a comment
If you follow me on Twitter (@MariahKunkel) you might have noticed that I recently had a guest editorship on Flavorpill Los Angeles, where I put together a shortlist of interesting events in the LA area, which also happens to be my hometown. I was especially pleased to find out that the guest editor series was sponsored by PF Flyers, the iconic American sneaker brand that was founded in 1937 and immortalized in one of my favorite movies, The Sandlot (see Benny put on his magic pair here, at 9.00 minute mark).
Was also featured on Flavorwire!
First produced by BF Goodrich in 1937, PF Flyers featured a patented insole — the PF stands for “Posture Foundation” — that was marketed as a magic wedge designed to help wearers “run faster and jump higher,” endearing them to generations of children (see: The Sandlot) who believed in their special powers.
PF Flyers was also the first sneaker company to collaborate with a pro athlete, developing classic basketball shoes with Boston Celtics legend Bob Cousy in the 1950s, that are still available today;
and in the 60s, the adventurer Jonny Quest also relied upon the “action shoes”:
“He ran like the wind! Lucky he was wearing his PF Flyers!”
In a genius bit of cross-marketing, kids could get a free PF Magic Ring just like Jonny’s with the purchase of a pair of PF Flyers.
Starting in the 1970s, PF Flyers lost much of the popularity they enjoyed in the 50s and 60s, but after the recent purchase and revival of the brand by New Balance, PF Flyers is staging a comeback with its “Authentic American Style Campaign” that simultaneously honors the brand’s past, looks toward the future and searches out contemporary icons for truly American style inspiration:
“Everyone has a story. Ours began 75 years ago and is based on the tradition of crafting authentic American style. While we are passionate about what we do, we aren’t the only ones. The contemporary cultural landscape is flooded with purveyors of authentic American style.
To help us tell this ever-evolving story, we’ve enlisted a select group of today’s style-makers who we feel embody the same sensibilities as we do. Over the coming months we will be unveiling their perspectives in a series of video-based interviews where they share their thoughts on inspiration, authenticity, and individual style. Stay tuned.“
The campaign recently kicked off with one of my favorite people, New Yorker Ouigi Theodore, Creative Director and Founder of the Brooklyn Circus. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing who else is included. You can find all the interviews here.
For wearable sneaker nostalgia check out the Archival Reissue Collection.
I’ve been loving the Bob Cousy Los, with their “Gullwing Closure” at the ankle.
Girls! Run faster, jump higher…and wait for the subway!
Lastly, many thanks to PF Flyers and Gabby and Christopher at Flavorpill
for including me in such a fun project.
Archive photos via PF Flyers. Life photos by Yale Joel, via the Life Archive.
Hey, Red! {Jessica Chastain for Vogue Italia April 2012}
09/04/2012 § 1 Comment
Well, now. I realize I haven’t posted about an editorial in almost three months. Is it because my interest has been elsewhere? Or perhaps because I just haven’t seen anything that has caught my eye? In any event, I have actress Jessica Chastain and Vogue Italia to thank for reviving my love of the editorial with an amazing set of images that hearken back to classic Hollywood and were coincidentally shot in one of my very favorite places in Los Angeles: the Fred Harvey Restaurant in Union Station — an art deco masterpiece that has been closed since 1967.
You can see my photographs from my last visit here.
Chastain giving her best Hayworth…
Please believe me when I say I know I will be married here — and I am not at all like that about weddings. Now all that’s left is to pin down the groom.
Details, details.
Photos by Michelangelo di Battista for Vogue Italia, via FGR.
The Downton Express {Louis Vuitton F/W 2012}
20/03/2012 § 1 Comment
Have you ever wanted to love something so much, because you felt it was thisclose to perfection — but you just couldn’t quite get there? This was the exact feeling I had while watching the Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2012 show. Even before that magnificent train fully pulled into the “station” and the models disembarked one at a time, trailed by immaculate porters bearing the iconic bags the house of Vuitton is known for, I knew that Marc Jacobs was pulling from the same early 20th century inspiration well that Ralph had also dipped into (and that I loved) and I got excited — but I should have seen the kaleidoscopic Jacobs twist coming. Indeed, with all the glittery doo-dads, exaggerated silhouettes and ridiculous hat action, I wouldn’t be very surprised to learn Dr. Suess or Tim Burton had assisted. And while I definitely respect Vuitton for pushing their boundaries, I must admit that I frequently feel disinterested in the brand’s contemporary fashion collections. I suppose I’m just not a Marc Jacobs girl.
The bags and luggage are usually a different story, and while I did find plenty to like among the collection’s accessories, I was still most bowled over the amazing production value of the show — which is destined to be my favorite concept for a very long time. I did want to share a few bright spots from the show though, which were best shown by the detail photos of Yannis Vlamos for Vogue Magazine.
Perfection. Complete and utter perfection.
Of course, if you are more of a Marc Jacobs fan than I,
you can head here to view the full collection (via Vogue).
Also amazing is this short film produced by Louis Vuitton, which is a lovely behind-the-scenes look at the show’s preparations all the way through its execution:
Tomboy Style: Beyond the Boundaries of Fashion
12/03/2012 § Leave a comment
So excited for Lizzie’s book! If you haven’t already, pre-order it.
On Uniforms {also, Style Icon: Emmanuelle Alt}
08/03/2012 § 12 Comments
Keep Anna Dello Russo and her fruit fixation, I much prefer the style of Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt. Mme. Alt and I have much in common: we both tend toward a slightly androgynous look, we both enjoy a smart jacket (and even more so if it has a military feel to it), we’re both near six feet tall and not afraid of a good high heel, we both employ the bro-tuck liberally, we both prefer unfussy hair. Obviously, we should be best friends. Obviously.
I can’t tell you how miffed I get when I see comments on pictures of her declaring her boring, or that it is nonsensical she is at the helm at Vogue Paris, because to me, Alt is the essence of Parisienne chic. Alt knows what she feels she looks best in and has formulated a bit of a uniform around that. She won’t try out trends simply because they are new, or seek attention by being outrageous. Alt is style, whereas Dello Russo is fashion.
As I become more comfortable in my own style, I find myself slipping into a uniform of my own, and I’m okay with that. While it may not be as Balmain-heavy as Mme. Alt’s, I’ve identified shapes I feel most comfortable in and am continually on the lookout for designers that hit my sweet spot, just as she has. I no longer feel compelled to wear “the new black” or jump on “of the moment” bandwagons because these trends don’t usually represent my personal style. Increasingly, I find I’d rather invest in pieces that I know I will love now, and years from now — not things I will want to toss out in a season or two.
How do you approach your own style?
Do you enjoy following the trends?
Do you have a uniform?
J’adore the Vogue Paris ladies, all wearing the Alt uniform.
Images via Streetfsn, Grazia.it, Vogue Paris and Stockholm Streetstyle.
Try on Mme. Alt’s uniform for size:
Balmain satin-trimmed wool-crepe jacket
Similar High Street alternative here (Asos)
Balmain stretch-leather skinny pants
Similar High Street alternative here (Zara)
T by Alexander Wang classic muscle T-shirt
Similar High Street alternative here (Zara)
Isabel Marant Zoro leather belt
Similar High Street alternative here (Urban Outfitters)
Jimmy Choo Abel pointed patent-leather pumps
Similar High Street alternative here (Nine West)
I’ve just got one question though:
How does she never have a purse?
Fetch My Walking Stick… {Ralph Lauren Collection Fall/Winter 2012}
16/02/2012 § 8 Comments
So. He opened the show with the Downton Abbey theme song.
Mr. Lauren, can you please exit my brain?
Just kidding! Stay as long as you like. Forever, even.
Please prepare yourself for a mammoth montage of photos from the Ralph Lauren Fall/Winter 2012 show. The full looks are amazing — two movements here really: first, classic English countryside, tailored, outrageously layered patterns and a stroke of ocelot genius; and second, a glamorous art deco, jewel-toned luxury that echoes his recent home collection — but you can scoot off to plenty of other places on the internets for that. Here, I’d like to draw your attention to some detail shots by Mr. Marcio Madeira, my favorite runway photographer. The inspiration abounds.
Long story short, I love the collection. But I’m sure you knew that already.
Someone fetch my walking stick.
Oh my.
One more time for good measure…
All photos by Marcio Madeira for First Look/Vogue. For all the looks, head here.
Woman of the Hour: Editor Carmel Snow
12/02/2012 § 3 Comments
Carmel Snow at the Harper’s Bazzar offices, 1952. Taken by Walter Sanders.
When I found these pictures of Carmel Snow, Editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar from 1934 to 1958, I will admit that I did not know very much about her. With a little research, I discovered that I wasn’t alone. It seems as though fashion has largely forgotten Ms. Snow, who existed in an era before star Editors like Vreeland, Wintour, Bailey or Alt, but what I discovered was quite a remarkable story about a remarkable woman that bears repeating.
- Carmel Snow was at Vogue from 1923 until 1933 as an editor, and resigned largely because she wanted to make the fashion editorial more more innovative: take it out of the formal studio setting with artificial light, experiment with shooting on location, etc., and was met with resistance. She joined Harper’s Bazaar a month after her departure from Vogue. Her former mentor and boss, Conde Nast, considered it a betrayal and never spoke to her again.
- Harper’s Bazaar, under Snow, became the first fashion magazine to shoot fashion outdoors and the first to show a model in motion, in 1933. Can you imagine if all of today’s editorials were still shot in-studio?
- She nurtured the careers of several imminent photographers, most notably Henri Cartier-Bresson, Brassai and Richard Avedon, who said of Snow “Carmel Snow taught me everything I know.”
- Snow also discovered Diana Vreeland at a party and brought her on as a fashion editor at Harper’s. Vreeland of course went on to be the Editor-in-chief at Vogue from 1963 to 1971.
- The woman worked hard and was definitely ahead of her time. She didn’t marry until her 30s, had her three children well into her 40s, working through her pregnancies and after her children were born. She didn’t resign until she was well into her 70s.
- She rarely slept or ate, but was very fond of the three martini lunch. She had something of a reputation of nodding off at fashion shows after one too many cocktails. Her drinking accelerated as she grew older.
- While small in stature, she was the kind of domineering boss that could successfully keep Vreeland in check and challenge her boss, William Randolph Hearst, prompting a famous memo in which he stated: “Does anyone have any control over Mrs. Snow? I KNOW I don’t.”
- She definitely had her eccentricities: she was never without her pearls, dyed her grey curls a pale shade of blue or lavender, snipped the labels of her couture to avoid customs fees, and though married, was most certainly obsessed with Cristobal Balenciaga (who was most certainly gay).
Snow and designer Cristobal Balenciaga, 1952. Taken by Walter Sanders.
Snow and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, 1952. Taken by Walter Sanders.
To sit with these two amazing ladies. To be a fly on that wall…
Also, hello bracelet! Amazing!
Snow with Alexey Brodovitch (kneeling), 1952. Taken by Walter Sanders.
Snow with Diana Vreeland, 1952. Taken by Walter Sanders.
Snow with Harper’s Bazaar Paris editor Marie-Louise Bousquet (second from left) at a press showing for fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris, 1951. Taken by Nat Farbman.
Snow with US Vogue fashion editor Bettina Ballard (right) at Schiaparelli in Paris, 1951. Taken by Nat Farbman.
Snow in 1953, taken by Al Fenn.
For further reading:
A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters by Penelope Rowlands. Officially added to my shortlist!
A charming article from Life Magazine, “Reporting Paris Styles is a Business: Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar cover Openings,” details Paris fashion week in 1937 and the competition between Carmel Snow and Vogue editor Edna Woolman Chase.
Previous Persons of the Hour can be found here.
All images via Life.
Quite Continental 