One From The Boys: Silk in the Raw {also, My Tie Love Affair}
16/03/2011 § 4 Comments
My love affair with beautiful neckties is ages old, cherie, and I definitely think it began in my formative years. The fact that my father wore a suit and tie every day served to transform the necktie into a powerful symbol of maleness and there is nothing I like more on a man. Even when he’s in casual dress, the addition of a tie will make me look once, twice, thrice. (Tie and glasses? C’est Fini!)
In college, I worked as a sales clerk in men’s suits in a large department store one Christmas season. The crowning glory? Ties upon ties upon ties displayed in a rainbow wheel of silk on circular tables, susceptible to complete dishevelment at the lightest touch from passersby. That table was a labor of love for me. I lost myself in the pursuit of perfection while my co-workers steered clear, endeavoring to look busy as they futzed over already-tidied merchandise.
While I’ve definitely given more Hermès than I’ve received — I’m looking to rectify that, d’accord! — I’ve become something of a tie collector and I enjoy wearing one frequently. (Sidenote: Isn’t it more than a bit unfair that a woman in a tie is viewed as more casual, whereas a man in a tie is automatically considered more formal?) I tend to favor a skinnier tie and usually employ the military tie tuck to keep from looking too Annie Hall. My best tie tip for the girls is that most of us can get away with wearing a boy’s tie — just look for the longest length available. Brooks Brothers Fleece ties in a size 50 are perfect. Added bonus: when they go on sale they run about $16.
Tie: Brooks Brothers Fleece, available here. Foto: Jennerator
As spring approaches, I’ve been hungering for a few new ties and Lawrence over at Sartorially Inclined has clued me in to what just might be my next move: raw silk. The ties I wear need to be versatile enough to be dressed down, but I love luxurious textiles — This is beautiful! What is that? Velvet? I definitely don’t want to be limited to knit or casual fabrics just because a tie on a girl is considered casual. The texture of the raw silk immediately caught my eye — luxe, nubby, simultaneously shiny and matte — and I’m inclined to give the 7cm striped shantung ties by Drakes London a try with threadbare chambray, crisp dress shirts and everything in between.
What’s around your neck this spring?
New Addition: Ray-Ban Caribbeans
14/03/2011 § 3 Comments
Newest addition to the family is a pair of Ray-Ban Caribbeans in light brown, with gradient lenses. Yours truly almost settled on a pair of Wayfarers, before deciding something different was in order. J’adore the slightly larger, squared shape and whisper of an upturned corner on these beauties. Originally released in 1964, the Caribbeans have a lovely bit of glamour that I find lacking in the ubiquitous Wayfarers but retain the classicism I was looking for in a pair of Ray Bans. Think of Caribbeans as the slightly more posh cousin of the traditional Wayfarers.
Next on my list is a pair of Catty Clubmasters, if only I can decide on the color. (Of course, I’m leaning towards red.)
LIFE Archives: The American Man {also, Nina Leen}
08/03/2011 § 9 Comments
For the August 26, 1946 issue of LIFE Magazine, photographer Nina Leen was tapped again to capture distinctly American characters. After photographing the American girl for “The American Look” article in 1945, she then turned her lens on “The American Man.” Leen’s European roots — she was born in Russia, and lived in Germany, Switzerland and Italy — and her seven years living in the US were touted as perfect credentials, as she had become “thoroughly familiar with American men without becoming used to them.” Leen’s article is an amusing view on the character and habits of the “exotic” American man, coupled with beautiful images of postwar menswear.
“HE IS HUSKY, takes enormous quantities of physical exercise.
HE IS HANDSOME, but not so handsome as he thinks he is.
HE IS COLLEGIATE, manages to resmemble a Yale man for years.”
“HE LOVES SMALL ANIMALS, will often stop on the sidewalk to scratch the ears of a stray cat.
HE EATS ICE CREAM in enormous quantities, savoring it as a Frenchman would a vintage wine.
HE MARRIES EARLY, usually looks entirely too younge to be the father of his growing family.”
“HE DRINKS MILK when dining out. In Europe only invalids or men with ulcers would do this.
HE IS TALL and likes to look taller. He considers being six feet tall a personal achievement.
HIS SECRETARY is apt to be very pretty, something which European wives would not tolerate.
LEFT TO HIMSELF at the delicatessen, he runs amok, always buys too much beer, cold meat.”
“A BLUR is all one seems of him in the morning as he bursts from his house to make the train.
BUT HE DAWDLES, once in the city, stopped by excavations, shop windows, tennis matches.
HIS BUSINESS SUIT is his uniform. With it he wears a four-in-hand tie, may carry a briefcase.”
“One thing that Miss Leen immediately noticed about the American is his legs…Their favorite position, particularly during business conferences, is on tables or desks, the higher the better.”
This last group of images of the “slouching American man” is my favorite. Leen shot these at the New York office of Young & Rubicam, an ad agency founded in 1923 that still operates to this day at its original Madison Avenue address. What we are treated to are photos of real Mad Men.
Did you notice he’s drinking milk?
I was able to dig up plenty of images Leen took for this article in the LIFE archives. They are such a wonderful look at the 1946 American male, through the amused eyes of Leen.
How sweet is Hughie?!
Hey, mister suspenders — I really heart your anchor tattoo.
All images via LIFE.
Further reading: “LIFE: The American Man“
LIFE Archives: The American Look {also, Nina Leen, Veronica Lake, Bass Weejuns}
06/03/2011 § 3 Comments
In the May 21, 1945 issue of LIFE Magazine, an article called “The American Look” appeared alongside wonderful images by photographer Nina Leen. Asserting that during WWII, US GIs had travelled the world and found the world’s women lacking in comparison to the “girls back home,” the article is a charming celebration of the fresh-scrubbed American girl, a wonderful look back at fashion and beauty in the 1940s and, of course, is a bit unintentionally funny to the modern eye. For someone like me, a prep with a penchant for nostalgia, this article is a beautiful, inspiration-filled time capsule of womenswear.
“In this most immense of wars Americans have involuntarily absorbed such a knowledge of people and races as would never come their way in peacetime years. Naturally the GIs’ interest in racial strains involves girls. They have seen and evaluated the relative endowments of English girls, French girls, Australian girls, Polynesian girls. They have found some to be beautiful, some pretty, some exotic. But none of them look like American girls and the GI has come to appreciate and miss, with a deep and genuine poignance, the look that sets American girls apart from those of all other lands.”
“A friendly, luminous smile…is a cardinal element of The American Look because American girls have the finest teeth in the world, an asset that derives from the balanced diet and good dental care that are the heritage of most American children.”
“GOOD GROOMING: Good grooming shows in the American girl’s big, competent, well-cared-for hands. She has at least one manicure a week, constantly freshens nail polish and uses much hand lotion.”
“NATURALNESS: Her “natural” look is a carefully contrived one. It means an evenly powdered, slightly rouged face, a mouth firmly and deeply outlined in bright lipstick. She uses mascara and eye shadow sparingly and makes no attempt to hide her freckles under a heavy make-up base. Her eyebrows are neat and brushed. They are carefully shaped but never look plucked.”
“CONFIDENCE: She walks erect, holds her head high, and she is not nonplussed by the admiring glances or whistles that follow her. Whether short or tall she does not mince as she walks but steps forward with graceful athletic stride she acquired as a roller-skating, ball-chasing tomboy.”
“AGELESSNESS: She keeps young in spirit and appearance well past the age when other women would consider themselves middle-aged and does it by minding her diet, her figure and her clothes. No matter what her age, her favorite costume for street wear is a good, not too mannish suit and blouse.”
“THEIR LEGS ARE LONG: The American girl is growing taller and most of the additional length seems to go to her legs…Their feet are getting longer (size 7 shoe vs. 6 1/2 ten years ago), but as compensation that has the effect of making their ankles appear proportionally slimmer.”
Her penny loafers! J’adore! Even if she has big feet.
The article stands the test of time and is ah-mazing — even if some of the ideas are more than a bit outdated at this point — mainly due to the beautiful photographs taken by Nina Leen. Leen was one of the first female photographers for LIFE and is best known for her images of fashion, Americana and animals. Luckily my dear, I was able to find a few additional images Leen took that did not make it into the article.
Une femme magnifique! I want this woman’s hair, her shoes, her car…
I’d even take whatever she’s got in those packages she carrying.
Aside from the adorable boy, I am swooning over her striped dress.
Do you not see the princess sleeve with the rickrack edge? Parfait!
The epitome of classic prep style: tweed, twinsets, pleats, golf.
Even though this picture was taken in 1945, does she not still come off très élégante? Is she not the picture of a “modern woman”? Did you notice her darling driving gloves?
J’adore the high waist and the 3/4 sleeve of the suit, the stingy brim of the hat.
Her hair has me thinking of the iconic Veronica Lake.
(Before she changed her hair for safety, of course!)
All images via LIFE.
A better look at the adorable shoes.
Do we think they are Bass Weejuns?
Image via GH Bass.
While at a uniform-required Catholic elementary school, I requested penny loafers specifically — even though all the other girls were wearing light-up LA Gear monstrosities. My prep runs deep, cherie. I think spring is a perfect occasion for a new pair. If you are similarly inclined, do stick with the original: Bass Weejuns. Virtually unchanged since Maine shoemaker G.H. Bass began making them in 1934, the shoe is iconic, well-made and will not break your precious piggy bank.
Further reading: “LIFE: The American Look“
LIFE Archives: Marilyn and Joe
10/02/2011 § Leave a comment
With Valentine’s Day approaching,
my mind has been turning to great love stories…
The marriage of film siren Marilyn Monroe and Joltin’ Joe DiMaggio, which lasted less than a year, has always stood out to me as one of most passionate affairs in history. The joining of these two superstars proved too explosive to sustain, but the love they shared was to endure forever.
For twenty years after Marilyn’s death,
Joe continued to send roses to her grave twice a week.
All images via LIFE
Channel a bit of Marilyn for your Joe (or while looking for your Joe) with these lovely Garbo earrings by DANNIJO — that feel just a bit mid-century modern.
Image via Shopbop
Dior Illustrated: René Gruau and the Line of Beauty
23/12/2010 § 1 Comment
While I was in London, I had the good fortune to catch the René Gruau exhibition at the Somerset House. If you are able to make it there before it closes, you must go! Gruau was a renowned fashion illustrator who was a creative collaborator and close friend of Christian Dior. Gruau’s campaigns for the Dior perfumes are among his most notable work as an artist. Gruau’s style was modern, elegant and frequently a bit mischievous. His haute couture illustrations for the pages of magazines like Marie Claire, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar changed the way that fashion designers and their designs were publicized. Today’s fashion editorials owe a deep debt to illustrators like Gruau.
Unfortunately photography was forbidden inside, but the Somerset House has posted a brief film about the exhibition, which is the first showing of Gruau’s work in London.
Runs through Jan 9.
Somerset House – Strand London WC2R 1LA – Tel: +44 (0)20 7845 4600
Louis Vuitton Men’s S/S 2011 featuring Scott Campbell
02/12/2010 § Leave a comment
Louis Vuitton hits the high notes with the first installment in a “video diptyque” (aka two part series) that introduces their men’s spring/summer 2011 collections. Vuitton has seized upon visual and tattoo artist Scott Campbell as the embodiment of the upcoming season — with good reason, as he collaborated on the collection — and we are treated to view a day in his life. It’s got a little bit of everything: a run across what looks like the Manhattan Bridge, his creative studio space, paper cut art and printmaking, the beautiful artwork on his body, an adorable dog, an abundance of the Damier Graphite Canvas collection (Sidenote: I really, really, REALLY think there ought to be a choice selection of women’s pieces in Damier Graphite Canvas. It isn’t fair for the men to have it all to themselves. Are you listening, LV?), a sweet motorcycle, bookstore meandering, a voyage to a mysterious location via CDG, lots of beautiful luggage and amazing clothes.
Stay tuned. We’ll catch up with Scott later.
Quite Continental 