Field Notes: The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. at the Rose Bowl Flea
27/10/2011 § 2 Comments
Now, when I say that I am originally from Los Angeles, it’s kind of like the geographic equivalent of rounding up to 10 from 7. How so? It’s because I actually spent the majority of my formative years in little place slightly to the north and west of Los Angeles proper, known to some of you simply as “The Valley.” Yes, the location of the party where Tai took a shoe to the head and went on to roll with the homies. Yes, the place that you have to thank for the “like” that permeates the vernacular. Yes, the San Fernando Valley. Like, oh my God.
Granted, The Valley is kind of like the red-headed stepchild of the Southern California family. It’s not regarded as especially cool or interesting, but rather, frankly, as being kind of lame. My mother, who was born and raised in Los Angeles, can’t even remember going there once as a child because, as she put it, “Why would you?” Perhaps I wear my pride somewhat internally, but when it gets down to it, I have so much love for my Valley and the years I spent there. I totally embrace my inner Valley Girl.
So you can imagine how happy I was a few months ago to discover The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co., purveyors of fine vintage American-made workwear from 1930-1970 and handmade, utility-inspired dry goods/accessories. And when I realized they had their own take on the classic tool bag, very much like those I had been admiring by a few other designers, but automatically and infinitely so much better because of its Valley origins, I might have geeked out a bit. So of course, I shot off a note to learn more about their bags and the operation at large.
In short order, I received a lovely reply from Warren Schummer, the man behind San Fernando Mercantile Co., as well as Vintage Workwear, a blog focusing on vintage workwear from the 1940s through the 1970s. It turned out Warren’s Valley roots were a bit more established than mine, as his go back three generations, and helped shape his addiction to workwear:
I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, particularly Sylmar in my youth, then left and spent a few years spent in Huntington Beach. Came back to Studio City for my teens and 20s, Sherman Oaks for the 30s and then to Tarzana in the west valley for the past 10 odd years, give or take. My pops owned an auto body repair shop on Ventura Blvd in Studio City where he specialized in German cars including Porsche and Mercedes Benz cars in particular. That environment in addition to my Grandfather working at the now defunct Chevrolet plant in Van Nuys helped shape my love of work clothing.
Warren began collecting — actually, he called it “hoarding” — workwear and soon came to realize that the best way to support his collecting habit was by parting with some of his pieces. This led to a stall at the Rose Bowl Flea Market (#3282), where he has been in residence for more than 18 months now, on the second Sunday of every month. Warren also owns All Valley Handyman Service, which provides him with the opportunity to wear his vintage on the job.
Wanting to apply the inspiration he found in vintage to the creation of new merchandise, Warren began with a small run of work caps made from vintage fabrics, selvedge denim and brown duck, which did well. With the success of the caps, bags were the obvious next step and a tote and tool bag-inspired bag soon followed. Warren is intensely involved in the design and construction process, seemingly coming just short of sewing everything himself — which I think he probably would try to do, if he could. All of San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co.’s merchandise is made in the USA, with most of it made in Southern California.
After hearing and loving all of this, I knew that I desperately wanted one of Warren’s bags and that I would definitely be stopping by stall #3282 on my upcoming (at the time) visit to the Rose Bowl Flea. A few short weeks flew by and I found myself in the sweltering Pasadena sun at the Flea. I dragged along Nick — of the rather awesome Tumblr No Secrets Between Sailors (and also Instagram: nosecretsbetweensailors) — and made him show me the ropes.
The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. was our first stop. Nick and I had a good long visit with Warren and his lovely lady Michele, while taking shelter in the shade of the tent and slowly perusing an amazing selection of workwear merchandise. We also discussed the specifics for one of his glorious 16″ bags that will be making its way to me in New York in the near future. Of course you’ll receive the full rundown when it arrives. Such a great afternoon.
Nick.
If you are at the Rose Bowl Flea, be sure not to miss the The San Fernando Valley Mercantile Co. If you can’t make it out to Pasadena, check the shop out online, as well as the store blog, and the Vintage Workwear blog.
Real Property Lust: Meanwhile, Back at the Ranch…
26/10/2011 § Leave a comment
There were plenty of things to love about this Spanish-style California ranch home belonging to supermodel Tatjana Patitz: the endless light, the double high living room ceiling (Patitz actually knocked out a floor to make way for it), dark wood and white walls, gleaming concrete floors, the horse stables that are on the two acres of land that surround the house, the ocean views, the jumble of mismatched furnishings…
What sealed the deal was the bedroom.
This is a place to disappear for hours. For days.
In. Love.
All images via House to Home.
Rabbit Hole: Victorian Child Criminals of Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction
25/10/2011 § 3 Comments
All taken between the years of 1871 and 1873, these photographs of child criminals who served time in Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction are so very intriguing to me. Initially because none of the inmates shown here are yet 20 years old, and for their various crimes and corresponding sentences (usually petty thievery and hard labor). Aside from the relatively rare opportunity to view the stark poverty and desperation that underlined the Victorian era on a individual and personal level, what struck me is that each “mugshot” is rather theatrically posed.
Why is this?
Is it because photographs were such a rarity at the time, especially for these subjects, that they were afforded the opportunity to ham it up for the gaoler’s photographer? Perhaps they were posed in an effort to humiliate? I suppose I will never know, but I still am lost down a Victorian rabbit hole, looking at these amazing photographs…
Jane Farrell stole 2 boots and was sentenced to do 10 hard days labour.
Age (on discharge): 12
Height: 4.2
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Henry Leonard Stephenson was convicted of breaking in to houses and was sentenced to 2 months in prison in 1873
Age (on discharge): 12
Height: 4.5
Hair: Dark
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Castle Eden
Mary Hinnigan was caught stealing iron and was sentenced to do 7 days hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 13
Height: 5.0½
Hair: Light Brown
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Newcastle
James Donneley, also known as James Darley, at the age of just 16, this young man had been in and out of prison, but on this occasion he was sentenced for 2 months for stealing some shirts.
Age:16
Height:5.0
Hair: Brown
Eyes:Hazel
Place of Birth: Shotley Bridge
Work: Labourer
Mary Catherine Docherty was sentenced to 7 days hard labour after being convicted of stealing iron.
Age (on discharge): 14
Height: 4.9
Hair: Red
Eyes: Dark Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Henry Miller was charged with the theft of clothing and sentenced to 14 days hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 14
Height: 4.5
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Berwick
Occupation: Confectioner
Wait, Henry was a candy-maker??
Alice Mullholland was sentenced to 3 months after being convicted of stealing some boots.
Age (on discharge): 18
Height: 5.0¼
Hair: Dark Brown
Eyes: Blue
Place of Birth: Newcastle
John Divine was imprisoned for 6 months after stealing money from another person.
Age (on discharge): 17
Height: 5.7
Hair: Dark Brown
Eyes: Grey
Place of Birth: Ireland
Occupation: Carver and Guilder
Isabella Hindmarch was convicted of stealing money, she had no previous convictions and served 1 month with hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 16
Height: 4’5 1/2”
Hair: Light Brown
Eyes: Dark Blue
Place of Birth: Gateshead
Occupation: Servant
Richard Rimmington was convicted of stealing a pipe from a shop and was expected to serve 14 days with hard labour. He was spared his sentence when his parents agreed to pay costs and the resulting fine.
Age (on discharge): 15
Height: 4’2 1/2”
Hair: Brown
Eyes: Grey
Place of Birth: Newcastle
Occupation: None
John Park was convicted of stealing a violin, he had no previous convictions and served 1 month with hard labour.
Age (on discharge): 19
Height: 5’6 1/2”
Hair: Dark
Eyes: Hazel
Place of Birth: Scotland
Occupation: Cartman and Soldier, 14th Brigade RA
If you’d like to wander through the full set of portraits of the inmates of Newcastle City Gaol and House of Correction from 1871 to 1873, head here.
Pictures and inmate information via Tyne & Wear Archives & Museums.
Rabbit Hole: Fifth Avenue, New York, 1911
20/10/2011 § 2 Comments
Carnegie mansion (R, current home of the Cooper-Hewitt)
Did you know that the New York Public Library had within its collections a series of panoramic photographs taken of Fifth Avenue — from start to finish — in 1911? I’ve been thoroughly enjoying my virtual wanderings down the avenue in 1911, which coincidentally is also where my office is located in 2011. Cars and pedestrians are frozen in time on the stately street. Some of the buildings I can recognize, while others have been long since torn down. The library is without its lions, St. Thomas is just being built and Mrs. Vanderbilt is still living in the mansion where Bergdorf Goodman now stands.
The images are a bit small here, but I urge you to click through and take a look for yourself at New York 100 years ago. They are amazing. You can find the collection here.
Knox Hat Building (currently home to HSBC) and NYPL
St. Thomas being built (R) and two Vanderbilt homes (L)
Vanderbilt home (current location of Bergdorf Goodman) and the Plaza
Field Notes: Big Sur. Big Paradise.
18/10/2011 § 10 Comments
Big Sur was pristine, remote and breathtakingly beautiful.
If you haven’t yet made the trip along PCH, move it to the top of your list.
Immediately...
Big Sur is the California that men dreamed of years ago, this is the Pacific that Balboa looked at from the Peak of Darien, this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.
Henry Miller
The blue sky adds “Dont call me eternity, call me God if you like, all of you talkers are in paradise: the leaf is paradise, the tree stump is paradise, the paper bag is paradise, the man is paradise, the fog is paradise”
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Breakfast at Big Sur Bakery.
The sea swirls up but seems subdued — It’s not like being alone down in the vast hell writing the sounds of the sea.
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Pacific fury flashing on rocks that rise like gloomy sea shroud towers out of the cove, the bingbang cove with its seas booming inside caves and slapping out, the cities of seaweed floating up and down you can even see their dark leer in the phosphorescent seabeach nightlight
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
A few Allagash Whites at Post Ranch Inn.
Sleep at Deetjens, the original Big Sur roadhouse. Built in the 1930s.
Reading List || LIFE Magazine July 6, 1959: Big Sur, California Story
18/10/2011 § Leave a comment
Henry Miller, second from left, in Big Sur in 1959.
I was pleased to discover that in 1959, LIFE Magazine sent J. R. Eyerman to capture a portrait of the creative colony that called Big Sur home at the time. Shooting in color, Eyerman returned with sun-bleached moments of artists, yogis, writers, families and local businessmen living in the picturesque California mountainside town. And after spending a few days there last week, I am happy to confirm that Big Sur definitely retains some of this same arty, offbeat and bohemian personality.
To read this lovely article, head here.
Woman of the Hour: Photographer Gerda Taro {also, Waiting for Robert Capa}
17/10/2011 § 4 Comments
Greetings from glorious San Francisco. Currently sitting in Four Barrel Coffee, sipping a delicious iced coffee (or three), enjoying the Indian summer and the constant stream of rather handsome gents passing through (ladies, take note). I’ve been reading an amazing book about an amazing woman whilst on my week-long California trip and I wanted to discuss it with you.
Robert Capa, and his brother Cornell, are among some of my favorite photographers, but when I began to investigate into their life histories, I discovered a bit more than I bargained for. In short, Robert Capa never actually existed. The man known as “Robert Capa” was actually a photographer named Andre Ernő Friedmann, a Hungarian Jew born in 1913. “Mr. Capa” was created in the 1936 in response to rising Nazism in Europe. The imaginary photojournalist with the American-sounding name easily secured work that a Jew couldn’t.
But Friedmann didn’t dream up Robert Capa alone.
Enter: Gerda Taro
Born Gerta Pohorylle to a Jewish Polish family living in Germany in 1910, Gerda was the companion and partner of Robert Capa. They met in Paris in the 1930s, where both were refugees. While she initially served as his assistant, Gerda eventually learned the art of photography from Robert. They fell in love and both published work as “Robert Capa,” and Gerta became Gerda. When civil war broke out in Spain in 1936, the two travelled there together to photograph the conflict.
“Taro and Capa represent a sort of romantic vision of the stateless person involving themselves in terrible battles: the social battles, the political battles of the time.”
It was during the Spanish Civil War that Taro began to establish herself as a photographer apart from Capa, with a style of her own and the use of a different kind of camera from Capa. While Capa’s photographs illustrate his love of movement and spontaneity, Taro’s photographs are more posed and place more emphasis on intimate moments. Around this same time, Taro also refused Capa’s marriage proposal. Capa would never marry for the rest of his life.
Crushed by a tank at the age of 26 in 1937, Gerda Taro was the first female photojournalist to cover the front lines of a war and the first to die doing so. Possibly her most familiar image is the one that opened this post, of a Spanish female soldier practicing with her pistol while wearing heels. Her photographs from the front lines are amazing. I am in awe of her courage and creativity. The woman was a badass.
“Taro is part of a small pantheon of women photographers who saw photography as an extension of their political commitment and of their role as new women.“
So, about that book I mentioned…
Waiting for Robert Capa retells Robert and Gerda’s amazing story. Author Susana Fortes weaves a gripping tale of historical fiction that is recently translated from Spanish. It begins in Paris and follows them to wartime Spain. I have not been able to put the book down during my trip and I highly recommend you pick it up. I’ve also noticed that one of my favorite directors, Michael Mann, has snapped up the film rights… You can bet that I will be watching this project with interest.
Rabbit Hole: The American Girl Magazine
16/10/2011 § 7 Comments
No, no, not that American Girl.*
From 1917 until 1979 Girl Scouts published a magazine, originally called “The Rally” (1917–1920) and then “The American Girl.” At one time this magazine had the largest circulation of any magazine aimed at teen-aged girls.
I really love some of the covers from the 1930s.
For more, head over to How To Be A Retronaut.
*I did own one of those dolls, though. Bonus points if you can guess which one.
Fotos: PCH ~ Los Angeles to Big Sur
14/10/2011 § Leave a comment
As I mentioned, I’ve been travelling this week along the California coast on the Pacific Coast Highway. I’ve got a million pictures — is this boring? are these like boring vacation slides your great uncle made you look at? — and here are some of my favorite moments from the drive north from Los Angeles to Big Sur.
La Super-Rica Taqueria
622 N Milpas St
Santa Barbara, CA 93103
Amazing Mexican food.
If you are in Santa Barbara, you must make a point to stop at La Super-Rica.
Have we discussed my horchata addiction? It’s ridiculous.
Old Mission Santa Barbara
2201 Laguna St
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
The Santa Barbara Mission was the tenth of the California Missions to be founded by the Spanish Franciscans. It was established on the Feast of St. Barbara, December 4, 1786.





























































































