Rabbit Hole: Fifth Avenue, New York, 1911
20/10/2011 § 2 Comments
Carnegie mansion (R, current home of the Cooper-Hewitt)
Did you know that the New York Public Library had within its collections a series of panoramic photographs taken of Fifth Avenue — from start to finish — in 1911? I’ve been thoroughly enjoying my virtual wanderings down the avenue in 1911, which coincidentally is also where my office is located in 2011. Cars and pedestrians are frozen in time on the stately street. Some of the buildings I can recognize, while others have been long since torn down. The library is without its lions, St. Thomas is just being built and Mrs. Vanderbilt is still living in the mansion where Bergdorf Goodman now stands.
The images are a bit small here, but I urge you to click through and take a look for yourself at New York 100 years ago. They are amazing. You can find the collection here.
Knox Hat Building (currently home to HSBC) and NYPL
St. Thomas being built (R) and two Vanderbilt homes (L)
Vanderbilt home (current location of Bergdorf Goodman) and the Plaza
Field Notes: Big Sur. Big Paradise.
18/10/2011 § 10 Comments
Big Sur was pristine, remote and breathtakingly beautiful.
If you haven’t yet made the trip along PCH, move it to the top of your list.
Immediately...
Big Sur is the California that men dreamed of years ago, this is the Pacific that Balboa looked at from the Peak of Darien, this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.
Henry Miller
The blue sky adds “Dont call me eternity, call me God if you like, all of you talkers are in paradise: the leaf is paradise, the tree stump is paradise, the paper bag is paradise, the man is paradise, the fog is paradise”
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Breakfast at Big Sur Bakery.
The sea swirls up but seems subdued — It’s not like being alone down in the vast hell writing the sounds of the sea.
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Pacific fury flashing on rocks that rise like gloomy sea shroud towers out of the cove, the bingbang cove with its seas booming inside caves and slapping out, the cities of seaweed floating up and down you can even see their dark leer in the phosphorescent seabeach nightlight
Jack Kerouac, Big Sur
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
A few Allagash Whites at Post Ranch Inn.
Sleep at Deetjens, the original Big Sur roadhouse. Built in the 1930s.
Reading List || LIFE Magazine July 6, 1959: Big Sur, California Story
18/10/2011 § Leave a comment
Henry Miller, second from left, in Big Sur in 1959.
I was pleased to discover that in 1959, LIFE Magazine sent J. R. Eyerman to capture a portrait of the creative colony that called Big Sur home at the time. Shooting in color, Eyerman returned with sun-bleached moments of artists, yogis, writers, families and local businessmen living in the picturesque California mountainside town. And after spending a few days there last week, I am happy to confirm that Big Sur definitely retains some of this same arty, offbeat and bohemian personality.
To read this lovely article, head here.
Woman of the Hour: Photographer Gerda Taro {also, Waiting for Robert Capa}
17/10/2011 § 4 Comments
Greetings from glorious San Francisco. Currently sitting in Four Barrel Coffee, sipping a delicious iced coffee (or three), enjoying the Indian summer and the constant stream of rather handsome gents passing through (ladies, take note). I’ve been reading an amazing book about an amazing woman whilst on my week-long California trip and I wanted to discuss it with you.
Robert Capa, and his brother Cornell, are among some of my favorite photographers, but when I began to investigate into their life histories, I discovered a bit more than I bargained for. In short, Robert Capa never actually existed. The man known as “Robert Capa” was actually a photographer named Andre Ernő Friedmann, a Hungarian Jew born in 1913. “Mr. Capa” was created in the 1936 in response to rising Nazism in Europe. The imaginary photojournalist with the American-sounding name easily secured work that a Jew couldn’t.
But Friedmann didn’t dream up Robert Capa alone.
Enter: Gerda Taro
Born Gerta Pohorylle to a Jewish Polish family living in Germany in 1910, Gerda was the companion and partner of Robert Capa. They met in Paris in the 1930s, where both were refugees. While she initially served as his assistant, Gerda eventually learned the art of photography from Robert. They fell in love and both published work as “Robert Capa,” and Gerta became Gerda. When civil war broke out in Spain in 1936, the two travelled there together to photograph the conflict.
“Taro and Capa represent a sort of romantic vision of the stateless person involving themselves in terrible battles: the social battles, the political battles of the time.”
It was during the Spanish Civil War that Taro began to establish herself as a photographer apart from Capa, with a style of her own and the use of a different kind of camera from Capa. While Capa’s photographs illustrate his love of movement and spontaneity, Taro’s photographs are more posed and place more emphasis on intimate moments. Around this same time, Taro also refused Capa’s marriage proposal. Capa would never marry for the rest of his life.
Crushed by a tank at the age of 26 in 1937, Gerda Taro was the first female photojournalist to cover the front lines of a war and the first to die doing so. Possibly her most familiar image is the one that opened this post, of a Spanish female soldier practicing with her pistol while wearing heels. Her photographs from the front lines are amazing. I am in awe of her courage and creativity. The woman was a badass.
“Taro is part of a small pantheon of women photographers who saw photography as an extension of their political commitment and of their role as new women.“
So, about that book I mentioned…
Waiting for Robert Capa retells Robert and Gerda’s amazing story. Author Susana Fortes weaves a gripping tale of historical fiction that is recently translated from Spanish. It begins in Paris and follows them to wartime Spain. I have not been able to put the book down during my trip and I highly recommend you pick it up. I’ve also noticed that one of my favorite directors, Michael Mann, has snapped up the film rights… You can bet that I will be watching this project with interest.
Rabbit Hole: The American Girl Magazine
16/10/2011 § 7 Comments
No, no, not that American Girl.*
From 1917 until 1979 Girl Scouts published a magazine, originally called “The Rally” (1917–1920) and then “The American Girl.” At one time this magazine had the largest circulation of any magazine aimed at teen-aged girls.
I really love some of the covers from the 1930s.
For more, head over to How To Be A Retronaut.
*I did own one of those dolls, though. Bonus points if you can guess which one.
Fotos: PCH ~ Los Angeles to Big Sur
14/10/2011 § Leave a comment
As I mentioned, I’ve been travelling this week along the California coast on the Pacific Coast Highway. I’ve got a million pictures — is this boring? are these like boring vacation slides your great uncle made you look at? — and here are some of my favorite moments from the drive north from Los Angeles to Big Sur.
La Super-Rica Taqueria
622 N Milpas St
Santa Barbara, CA 93103
Amazing Mexican food.
If you are in Santa Barbara, you must make a point to stop at La Super-Rica.
Have we discussed my horchata addiction? It’s ridiculous.
Old Mission Santa Barbara
2201 Laguna St
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
The Santa Barbara Mission was the tenth of the California Missions to be founded by the Spanish Franciscans. It was established on the Feast of St. Barbara, December 4, 1786.
Fotos: Los Angeles Union Station
11/10/2011 § 9 Comments
Rabbit Hole: Vintage Sportswomen
07/10/2011 § Leave a comment
I figure…
if these ladies can do all of this in a dress (and most likely a corset too)…
I really have no good reason for not taking myself to the gym, right?
Well, other than pure, unadulterated laziness.
Let’s keep it real.
For more images of vintage sportswomen,
head over to How To Be A Retronaut.
Re-Mastered {Yves Saint Laurent, 1999}
07/10/2011 § 3 Comments
Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe
Edouard Manet, c. 1862
This classic Yves Saint Laurent campaign that echoes several iconic paintings, photographed by Mario Sorrenti in 1999, is a favorite of mine. Yes, Christian Louboutin also had a more recent campaign along this same theme, but those photographs were merely exacting reproductions of the originals, with a stiletto thrown into the mix. Pretty to look at, but not much more. Appropriately coming from the House of Le Smoking, the YSL images are much more interesting for their deft play with the concepts of gender and gender roles. My absolute favorite image is this first one above, based on Manet’s Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (one of my first stops whenever visiting the Musée d’Orsay in Paris). I’ve always wondered why the ladies were naked whilst the men were so very buttoned up. What kind of luncheon is that? Extra points for Kate Moss in a suit, of course…
Even more interesting is the image based on Fragonard’s Le Verrou, where a image of sex, violence and male domination is flipped on its head. Again, with Kate Moss at the helm, it is she who is clutching a lithe youth who is shown naked — he is given no courtesy of a layered gown like the woman in the Fragonard painting — and overwhelmed. It is Kate who is reaching up to secure the bolt on the door. It is a woman who overpowers here, a woman who who dominates. (Yes, we do have to cast aside the crucial fact that he very well could reach the bolt if he wanted to, unlike the woman in the Fragonard painting.)
But, wait...
Do you feel the instinct — as I do — to cast the scene differently when looking at Kate? Do you interpret her furrowed brow as concern? That she is she opening the door and not closing it? That something else is happening? Something tender?
Is this merely because the antagonist is a woman…?
Look again. Compare the two. How different are they, truly?
And that is why I will always, always, always prefer this campaign over a few pictures of pretty models, classically styled, with a few shoes placed at strategic intervals.
But that’s just me.
Le Verrou
Jean-Honoré Fragonard, c.1780
Olympia
Edouard Manet, c. 1863
Jeune homme nu assis au bord de la mer
Hippolyte Flandrin, c.1836
Le sommeil
Jean Désiré Gustave Courbet, c.1866
La baigneuse de Valpincon
Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, c.1808
Gabrielle d’Estrées and One of Her Sisters
School of Fontainebleau, c. 1594
Vénus à son miroir
Diego Velazquez, c.1647-51
Les Trois Grâces
Jean-Baptiste Regnault, c.1799
Magdalen with the Smoking Flame
Georges de la Tour, c. 1640
La Gioconda
Leonardo da Vinci, c. 1503–1519



























































































